Saturday, December 25, 2010
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Crochet Designer, Jill Hanratty
I wanna make THIS
Isn't it lovely? Young? Artsy?
For a look through the entire booklet, see here:
http://www.patonsyarns.com/patternbook.php?PBS=500862
The collection of styles in this booklet are definitely geared to the 16 through mid twenties crowd. My daughter is 22. She has two (cloth) jumpers similar to this (one solid, one striped) and they look great on her. It is very versatile, with the ability to dress it up or down, and change the look by the colors worn underneath it, with tights, with jeans, etc.
This project has been a WIM of mine since I first saw the book. The pattern retails for just over $4.00 at your local craft chain, and can be purchased directly from Patons for a smidge cheaper as a pdf download. That's a deal considering how many projects are included in the booklet. With the needed yarn, perhaps this would cost about $40 to make. That's where I had to (temporarily) put on the brakes. Have I mentioned we're on a budget here in the Casa de Carlen?
Since the summer, money has been extremely tight. I'm trying to justifying this purchase since I have been: brown bagging lunch, not bought anything remotely "indulgent" in months, been making dinners largely out of the cupboard and freezer as much as possible, using my stash yarn for any and all recent projects............and... wouldn't this a) make a lovely Xmas gift for my daughter and b) keep me out of trouble? YES, I vote yes.
Print me an ACMoore coupon and come to mama~! I see a shopping trip in my very near future....and, I'll keep ya posted.
12/24/12 - edited to add: I DID make this. In a lovely caramel color, and will have to take a photo of my beautiful daughter wearing it and add it to this post!
Learning to knit - 2 sites (and an excellent cast on)
TADA - LONG TAIL CAST ON to the rescue. I tell my students that the long tail cast on - sometimes referred to as the sling shot cast on - might be the most difficult thing they ever learn in knitting. It isn't that its difficult per se, it is just a little bit awkward at first.
This link will take you directly to the pdf download:
www.butlercountryknit.com/longtail.pdf
however, if you want to roam around the site a little, try this instead:
http://www.butlercountryknit.com/main1.html
........and you may want to treat yourself to a little something from the shop. Marge, the proprietor, is a very nice lady. I asked her for permission to use her tutorial in teaching the long tail cast on (her's is the BEST tutorial out there) and she said yes, certainly. Of course, I give her credit for the tutorial, as I should.
While there are many cast on methods, and some patterns will specify a specialty cast on.....long tail never seems to fail.
So, starting at the beginning, now that the cast on is out of the way, Lion Brand (once again) provides an excellent tutorial on its website, here it is:
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/82.html?www=1&language=
When you get to the tutorial page, to the bottom left hand is a link to download in pdf all of the instructions, without having to load/watch page by page.
As with its crochet instructions, Lion Brand, when asked, gave me permission to use its tutorial for my knitting students, so long as its copyright is in place. While the cast on directions are to knit the stitches onto the needles, I still prefer the long tail - overall, Lion Brand's directions are quite good!
How to crochet - 2 sites providing good tutorials/directions
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/106.html?www=1&language=
Once on the page, towards the bottom center where it reads "Learn to Crochet: Before you Start" there is a link below to the left where one can download ALL of the directions (rather than view online page after page). This is what I suggest.
I contacted Lion Brand asking permission to reprint and utilize its instructions for teaching, and the response was "ABSOLUTELY, yes" - so long as I left the Lion Brand copyright on the papers -- which is what I do. Another good thing about its site is the variety of patterns for all categories and experience levels - AND - Lion Brand doesn't mind if you plan to sell what you make using their patterns. Over all, good website with lots of useful stuff.
Another good learning site is: http://www.nexstitch.com/a_articles.html This takes you to the instructions base, which are pdf downloads. There, one can even find instructions for left handed crocheters.
Happy learning to you all.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
"invisible" knit increase
Knit patterns often state which increase to use; and there are several. However, when using a pattern in which the method isn't stated, I have read that most will use make 1 (m1). It isn't because this gives the best result, however, but because the knitter hasn't been exposed to more appropriate methods for the desired result with a particular pattern. That is, when you're new, you tend not to get extensive information that comes with more exposure to different, more varied and/or difficult patterns that necessarily add to your "bag of knitting tricks." Frankly, the pattern writer is equally at fault by assuming the "correct" method for the job will just be known to the knitter. The second choice is knit front/back in the same stitch. I like this, but it leaves such evidence of its usage.
Since increases lean left or right, patterns should be written with the preferred method for each increase and often pair left lean and right lean for a better visual effect. The wrong increase can make your work look sloppy, not like "the picture on with pattern" and can leave you disappointed without even knowing why. Snore, yawn, I'm boring you, right? Okay. For a good list generally, see: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases and choose accordingly.
NOW LETS GET TO THAT "INVISIBLE" INCREASE. I was recently attempting to make a project that was all about the increase...and the increases I made were so blatant and obvious that I was disappointed. Wanting the increases to be as invisible as possible, searching the net, I found this tutorial: http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/very-nearly-invisible-increase.html
I must admit, it is a perfectly benign smooth increase. It doesn't seem to lean either left or right, and in usage it looks, to me, like a fork in the road, as if the stitches magically multiplied with little tell-tale sign at all. I've knitted for years now and never saw this increase anywhere. While other increase methods are equally purposeful, this is great when you want it to be as inconspicuous as possible. I don't think I'd use it for raglan shaping--there I like a little "seam" and demarcation to show what happened at the shoulders.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
substitutions revisited
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Knitted Keyhole Scarf - Lion Brand Free Pattern
Hello folks. Here is a link to a fabulous scarf...although I would go so far as to call it a "scarflette" which has become so popular in the past 2 years.
Also below is a link to the pattern. Enjoy.
So what is a scarflette? It is wrapped around the neck like a traditional scarf, but fastened AT the neck by buttons, loops, slits or keyholes. As such, it works up quicker than long scarf wrapped around the neck and thrown over the shoulder. Any search engine looking for images of scarflettes will bring you a lot of hits.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Finished: Barbie's top down "Barbara Walker" dress
Friday, July 30, 2010
Barbara Walker top down Barbie dress - progress photo
Friday, July 23, 2010
"Gone Fishin' or "Don't bother me; I'm knitting" or "Currently on the needles...a top down dress for Barbie"
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Book Review (Yes, now I fancy myself a critic) LOL
When I was new to crochet, I bought myself a LOT of patterns. I bought patterns before I even knew how to work many of the stitches and techniques, knowing full well that they were beyond my skillset. Years after, I discovered Ebay and had an absolute field day purchasing vintage patterns for potholders, doilies and kitschy stuff that quite frankly I'll never have enough time to make--but I absolutely LOVE my (large) pattern collection. I think it might even be fair to say that I love my pattern collection more than I love the actual crocheting...did ya ever feel that way too? I can get lost in those patterns and they really hold a fascination for me.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
coming up.......
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Seaming Crochet - Five Methods
Either sewn or crocheted, each seaming technique posesses its own special qualities. Corresponding yarn and a blunt darning needle are used for the sewing methods; a crochet hook is used for the others.
1) Single Crochet. This is a decorative seam on items with two pieces (front and back), like a pillow or tote bag, etc. It is sometimes used to stitch together afghans motifs where the ridge-like stitching is intended show.
To work a single crochet seam on a pillow or tote, place the wrong sides (what becomes the inside) together and use single crochet all around the edges. Simple as that.
When working single crochet to put stich afghan squares or strips together, butt the pieces together with right sides (fronts) facing. Stitch away.
2) Slip stitch. Less decorative than single crochet edging, this is also intended to show on the finished project. Again, it is useful for items with a distinct front/back and afghan motifs and works exceptionally well when attaching a pocket or pouch. To join items, work much the same as single crochet (above). Use the same yarn and you get texture; use contrasting yarn and you get texture and a pop of color. For adding a pocket, after placing it in the spot desired, slip stitch around it and through the 2 pieces to be joined.
3) Mattress stitch. Leaving only a small ridge on the wrong side of the work, this method is almost invisible and best used in garment seaming. Since it is worked with the front (right) sides of the work facing you, seams butted together, you can actually see how the seaming progresses. To work mattress stitch, place the project pieces, edges together, front sides facing you. Thus, there is a right piece and a left piece, fronts facing, edge to edge. With a darning needle and corresponding yarn, secure the yarn at the edge where you begin. With the needle pointing up, pick up the first stitch, leaving yarn loose; go to the opposite piece and pick up the corresponding row. Continue in this fashion and after three to four stitches, tighten the yarn so it "disappears, but not so tight that it causes your seam to pucker. Basically, you're creating a stitched zig-zag and cinching it tight after a few stitches.
4) Backstitch. Sturdy and popular for seaming together garments, this stitch leaves a bulkier seam than mattress stitch, but is very strong for sleeves, shoulders and underarms. With right sides together, with darning needle and correspondening yarn, secure yarn at the edge of one piece before piercing both pieces. Push the needle through both pieces at once, working across from right to left. Come up through both pieces at point A, make a stitch backwards and come up at point beyond where you made the first stitch. Imagine each stitch as a half inch segment in which the needle first pierces both pieces from back to front at point A, then pierces the pieces from front to back a quarter inch distance to the right, then pierces the pieces again from back to front half inch, repeatedly. Pull the stitches tightly to hide them, but not so tight that the seam puckers.
5) Whip stitch. With darning needle and corresponding yarn, hold two pieces together and insert the needle from back to front, continuing around and around (think of the stripes on a candy cane). This method is simple, and very good for seaming together afghan motifs. Worked on motifs through the back loops only with "wrong" sides facing, the stitching is almost invisible when the same color yarn is used, making the front of the project look as if the front loops of the stitches have become one. This is a basic, sturdy stitch. It can also be used for garment seaming where a "rustic" look is desired, but is rarely recommended for garments. I personally like this method for seaming garments..call me crazy.
If you would like to practice seaming, make a few squares of the same size. Seam them together using the various methods. It is a practice piece; it doesn't have to "be" anything.
As always, look to the internet for photo or video tutorials.
Adding Color to Crochet, hints, tips, tricks
Since we crochet back and forth naturally, the easiest way to add color to a project is with horizontal stripes. Adding a new color via striping (introducing new yarn) is done by dropping the yarn in use at the end of a row, and adding the new color at the start of the following row. This can be accomplished by:
a) fastening off the first color and pulling up a loop of the next color in the first stitch, or
b) working the last stitch almost to completion, then pulling up the last loop with the new color to be used (regardless if working sc, dc, trc, etc.).
The above is the simplest way to "pop up" your color palate and should not be too intimidating for a beginner.
Of course, the question of "to knot or not" comes up. So here is my answer. DO WHAT SUITS YOU, and I won't judge you. If you are comfortable weaving cut yarn tails into their own colors, do so. If you prefer to knot 2 tails together before weaving into their own colors, do so. Now I know some will cringe at the idea of tying knots...but here is the thing: sometimes yarn is knotted inside a skein, right from the manufacturer...so it happens. Secondly, a well hidden knot is nobody's business - :) Lastly, if a knot brings a bit of comfort to a crafter that their gift won't come undone in the wash...I say do it. Tie a knot. Matter of fact, some people make a piece that is all knots...scraps tied together and crafted into...whatever, and the knots are a featured part of the piece. Whatever gets made from that mystery ball of knotted yarn is certainly UNIQUE~!
WHEN TO NOT TIE A KNOT: Ah, you knew this was coming, didn't you........here is when:
There are other ways to add color, such as blocks of color, vertical stripes, or as in a charted design, by carrying, weaving or crossing the yarn. For these color techniques, the use of separate skeins or bobbins simultaneously may be necessary, depending on how many colors are in use. For some colorwork, checkerboard for instance, the yarn may be woven into the piece by carrying it across the stitches of one color block and crocheting over it....then dropping the color in use and picking up the color that has just been woven over, etc. Crocheting over a “not in use” color is similar to hiding yarn tails at the beginning of a row. Literally, you crochet right over the yarn to be carried to the next space, and it disappears into the stitches. This could cause a problem, however, if the yarns in use are terribly opposite to each other...in those instance, you may be able to see the yarn carried over...it is doesn't bother you; then it isn't a problem...it becomes the nature of the piece. :)
An alternate method, carrying the yarn from section to section along the "wrong" side of a project, may be used for items where only the front of the piece (for instance, a chair cover or wall hanging) will be seen. In carrying yarn across the backside, if it spans more than 4 stitches, the yarn should be caught into the stitches being worked every 5 stitches or so. To to this, at intervals of 5 stitches, catch the stranded yarn with your hook and work over it, that is, crochet over it with that one stitch, then strand it again for 5 more stitches, etc. and so on. The reason for this is that since it is one-sided, you don't want the bulkiness that working over each stand will bring, and also perhaps it is a very dark color in contrast to the main yarn, and you would not want that to show through to the front. (For knitters, this is quite similar to fair isle/stranding technique.)
Lastly, if the design is suitable to the need for various bobbins, with lots of color blocking through the design, each color should be worked to its necessary point, then dropped and said yarn crossed with the next color needed, and so on. How this is done is simple. Drop the bobbin containing the current yarn and bring the next color yarn bobbin up and under to the right of the bobbin dropped, which twists the 2 yarns, then proceed with the next stitch, pulling it a little bit tighter than usual. Proceed throughout the piece this way at each color change.
We make many decisions based on the project itself. This is no different crocheting with color. The design will indicate which method is best.
Hints/tips:
Basically, color changes without cutting yarn are made by working the LAST loop of the last stitch of one color with the next color.
If you are tying knots at the end, make them as inconspicuous as possible and weave each tail into its own color.
When using bobbins, it is important to keep them untangled. Seriously.
When carrying yarn, don't carry it across too many stitches; remember to catch it every 4 to 5 stitches.
VERY IMPORTANT: Carry the yarn loosely across the back so that it doesn't cause your item to pucker...but not so loose that your beginning and ending stitches are obviously loose.
Yarn tails throughout a spectularly colored piece should always be woven into a yarn row of the same color.
When using the crossed yarn method, use the necessary amount of bobbins for each separate section of color. It is worth the time, trust me.
Sometimes, even when using the carrying method, it may be best to utilize separate bobbins for different sections of the same color to avoid carrying yarn across wide expanses.
The above is my experience and opinion. If anyone has something to add, your comments, tips or tricks are most welcome and invited. Again, look to the internet for videos and\or tutorials.
Friday, July 16, 2010
plug for someone I don't even know :)
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Knitting for Fashion Dolls - A Beginner's Primer
Saturday, July 3, 2010
crocheting - a thought or 2 on adapting flat back and forth crochet to in the round
So, if anyone is reading this post at all, if you've experienced turning side to side crochet into in the round crochet, I'd love to hear from you and how that worked out and if you've got any special "tweaking" tips you would like to share.
Thanks, Donna
Sunday, June 27, 2010
DPNs: Adapting a flat item to DPNS, Part 2 of 2
Supplies: Four U.S. size 8, 9 or 10 dpns, worsted weight yarn any color, darning needle
PROJECT: Let's adapt a fairly simple hat knitted flat on 2 straight needles (pattern below) to knitting in the round on dpns. As the straight knitted hat has to be seamed up the back, 70 stitches are cast on, with 2 stitches allowing for the sewn seam. Since we will not be seaming the item, we need to eliminate 2 stitches. Therefore, instead of casting on 70 stitches, we'll cast on 68 either all onto one dpn and transfer them to 3 dpns evenly (approx. 22 stitches per dpn), or spread evenly over 3 dpns with a direct cast on. If you are uncomfortable with the initial join, cast on 69 and stitch the first 2 together as directed above in No. 3.
Because this hat is stretchy, worked in 3K, 1P ribbing, whether or not you want it tighter or looser on your head will determine which size needles you use. Since this is a very stretchy pattern, a little bit tighter or looser gauge isn't going to drastically change the fit.
Round 1: k3, p1
Subsequent rounds: repeat round 1
At 7 inches, begin decreasing as follows:
Round 1: k2 together, around
Round 2: k2together, around
Round 3: cut yarn leaving a 5 inch tail. Thread a darning needle and slip it through all stitches on the dpns, pull the yarn tight and make 2 stitches to keep the top of the hat shut. Add a pompon to the top if desired.
Note the differences between knitting the project as above on dpns, and as below on straight needles.
Consider what other projects that are written for straight needles could be adapted to knitting on dpns
***RIBBED HAT WORKED ON 2 STRAIGHT NEEDLES
STRETCHY RIBBED CAP (for average-sized adult head)
Supplies: (less than) 1 skein worsted weight acrylic yarn, your brand/color choice
Needles: U.S. size 8, 9 or 10
Alternately, may be worked on circular needles if desired
Gauge: since this hat is very stretchy, any of the 3 sized needles will work and not change the overall fit too dramatically.
Cast on 70 stitches
Row 1: K3, P1, repeat across, ending in K2.
Row 2: P2, *k1, P3*, repeat across from *to*.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 and work as established in rib pattern until piece measures 7 inches long. At 7 inches, decrease as follows:
Row 1: k2tog across. Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3-5: Repeat rows 1 & 2, ending in a decrease row. DO NOT CAST OFF.
Leaving a 12 inch tail, cut yarn. Thread the tail through a darning needle. Slip the darning needle through the stitches on the knitting needle as you remove the knitting needle. Pull the tail tightly and secure the tightened opening with a whipstitch. Using the remaining length of tail, continue down the back of the hat and whipstitch the seams together until finished. Weave the tail in one direction, then the other to secure. Cut tail.
Notes: Hat may be made with scraps in various colors. The ribbing pattern can be altered as you wish. It can be embellished with a tassel or pompon at the top, or knitted flowers/shapes or buttons may be sewn on. Knitting it 9 to 10 inches long instead of 7 before decreasing, creates a brimmed edge that can be turned up.
DPNs; Double Pointed Needles - Lesson: Knitting in the Round, Part 1 of 2
Supplies: 4 dpns, U.S. size 8, 9 or 10, worsted weight yarn
Prior knowledge necessary: casting on/off, knitting, purling
Dpns are just that--knitting needles with a point at each end as opposed to needles with a point at one end and a stopper at the other. DPNs are sold in sets of 4 or 5.
The stitches are evenly spread across 3 dpns, while the 4th dpn is used to work each stitch around (or 4 dpns while using the 5th to work the stitches).
Why dpns? Rather than knitting an item flat and sewing it up:
1) the project is seamless, knitted in rounds, not rows; no seaming\sewing needed
2) for stockinette stitch, purling is eliminated since item is not turned at each row
3) tension is more even since item is not turned
4) works up quicker since item is not turned
5) works great on tube shaped items, such as hats, gloves, socks, caddies, stuffed toys, doll
clothing, leg warmers, gauntlets
6) many patterns can be adapted to working with dpns, and by doing so, eliminating the
need to sew seams and, thus, also saving time
Potential issues, and fixes, for working with dpns:
1) Use the longtail cast on (will be taught if needed). This keeps the stitches tightly together. While the simpler finger wrap is an easy cast on, it creates a distracting long strand between each stitch, which we want to avoid.
2) Juggling several needles at a time is awkward initially. As with all knitting, it becomes comfortable with practice.
3) Gauge may be different (slightly smaller) since it is worked in one direction. Adjust needle size to achieve proper gauge for the project.
4) Stitches slipping off the ends of the dpns. Keep the stitches spread evenly between all dpns. When putting the work down, either use stoppers or push the stitches to the center of each dpn.
5) BIG TIME TIP: The join at the first 2 stitches can gap. To eliminate this at the initial join, cast on 1 extra stitch and slip the first 2 joining stitches one over the other. Alternatively, cast on 1 extra stitch and slip the first and last stitch together onto one needle, then knit them together. Either method creates one decrease, leaving the correct number of cast on stitches intact, and no gap.
6) Strands, called ladders, or gaps between stitches can occur at stitches where the dpns meet. Pull tightly at the joins between dpns--more snuggly than you do for other stitches. You may also wish to adjust the stitches every so often.for example, with 30 stitches on 3 needles, 10/10/10, instead work 11 stitches onto a needle, then 11 onto the next, etc. Thereafter, work 9, then, 9 more, etc. This moves the joins around, making them less noticeable. Again, practice will remedy most initial problems encountered.
7) Markers are useful for knitting in the round to mark the end/beginning of each round.
For practice, cast on 30 stitches, 10 per needle, and begin. It may be easier to cast all 30 stitches onto 1 dpn, then transfer 10 to a 2nd and 10 to a 3rd. Note: cast on 1 extra and work 2 stitches together at the initial join.
The 4th dpn is called the free needle.
Be careful not to twist your stitches, or else your project will be a mobius and not a tube.
The dpns are now naturally forming a triangle. Using the free needle, knit the stitches on the first needle as you normally would and when you knit the last stitch, pull your yarn tightly to prevent gaps.
Now, you have a free needle again. Knit the next 10 stitches as previously, pulling tightly with the last stitch. Again, you have a free needle--knit the last 10 stitches.
You have just completed one round. You could place a marker here if needed for your project.
Since there is no turning the work with dpns, to create stockinette stitch we simply continue knitting, and have eliminated the need to purl. This doesn't mean that we'll never purl with dpns; we would if a pattern required it. Since this doesn't, let's continue knitting around and around until our tube measures an inch or two.
Cast off in knitting, leaving a tail for whip stitching the end closed (if desired).
PART 2 - ADAPTING A FLAT KNITTED ITEM TO DPNS
Supplies: Four U.S. size 8, 9 or 10 dpns, worsted weight yarn any color, darning needle
PROJECT: Let's adapt a hat knitted flat on 2 straight needles (pattern below) to knitting in the round on dpns. As the straight knitted hat has to be seamed up the back, 70 stitches are cast on, with 2 stitches allowing for the sewn seam. Since we will not be seaming the item, we need to eliminate 2 stitches. Therefore, instead of casting on 70 stitches, we'll cast on 68 either all onto one dpn and transfer them to 3 dpns evenly (approx. 22 stitches per dpn), or spread evenly over 3 dpns with a direct cast on. If you are uncomfortable with the initial join, cast on 69 and stitch the first 2 together as directed above in No. 3.
Because this hat is stretchy, worked in 3K, 1P ribbing, whether or not you want it tighter or looser on your head will determine which size needles you use. Since this is a very stretchy pattern, a little bit tighter or looser gauge isn't going to drastically change the fit.
Round 1: k3, p1
Subsequent rounds: repeat round 1
At 7 inches, begin decreasing as follows:
Round 1: k2 together, around
Round 2: k2together, around
Round 3: cut yarn leaving a 5 inch tail. Thread a darning needle and slip it through all stitches on the dpns, pull the yarn tight and make 2 stitches to keep the top of the hat shut. Add a pompon to the top if desired.
Note the differences between knitting the project as above on dpns, and as below on straight needles.
Consider what other projects that are written for straight needles could be adapted to knitting on dpns
***RIBBED HAT WORKED ON 2 STRAIGHT NEEDLES
STRETCHY RIBBED CAP (for average-sized adult head)
Supplies: (less than) 1 skein worsted weight acrylic yarn, your brand/color choice
Needles: U.S. size 8, 9 or 10
Alternately, may be worked on circular needles if desired
Gauge: since this hat is very stretchy, any of the 3 sized needles will work and not change the overall fit too dramatically.
Cast on 70 stitches
Row 1: K3, P1, repeat across, ending in K2.
Row 2: P2, *k1, P3*, repeat across from *to*.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 and work as established in rib pattern until piece measures 7 inches long. At 7 inches, decrease as follows:
Row 1: k2tog across. Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3-5: Repeat rows 1 & 2, ending in a decrease row. DO NOT CAST OFF.
Leaving a 12 inch tail, cut yarn. Thread the tail through a darning needle. Slip the darning needle through the stitches on the knitting needle as you remove the knitting needle. Pull the tail tightly and secure the tightened opening with a whipstitch. Using the remaining length of tail, continue down the back of the hat and whipstitch the seams together until finished. Weave the tail in one direction, then the other to secure. Cut tail.
Notes: Hat may be made with scraps in various colors. The ribbing pattern can be altered as you wish. It can be embellished with a tassel or pompon at the top, or knitted flowers/shapes or buttons may be sewn on. Knitting it 9 to 10 inches long instead of 7 before decreasing, creates a brimmed edge that can be turned up.
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Shopping for Knitting Supplies - A Guide for the New Knitter