tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46783952370056284512024-02-24T02:01:07.450-05:00strings attachedtips, tricks, patterns for crochet and knittingD. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-23387702396120072102019-03-18T22:33:00.002-04:002019-03-18T22:39:30.884-04:00Chick, Hen - plastic egg cover<div>
HEN/CHICK</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHkK8qCg4VkcmxqqBgZJlQWRbYMyrZfC_nMPupOHHoEA59JhFdPFbN8tIKHej2jodQ11eFQXOpQF_y2zoHg8gkdsJTrx32q2jD9g4v4UlJIoTEiYFr3twHaMr0thC2tTUMIgeL0sqpgk/s1600/Screen+Shot+2019-03-18+at+10.38.18+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="366" data-original-width="711" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHkK8qCg4VkcmxqqBgZJlQWRbYMyrZfC_nMPupOHHoEA59JhFdPFbN8tIKHej2jodQ11eFQXOpQF_y2zoHg8gkdsJTrx32q2jD9g4v4UlJIoTEiYFr3twHaMr0thC2tTUMIgeL0sqpgk/s320/Screen+Shot+2019-03-18+at+10.38.18+PM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Materials: much less than a skein of worsted weight yarn for body in white, gold, brown, yellow (your choice really; use leftover bits of yarn). Small bit of worsted wt. red yarn for comb; very small bit of yellow or gold for beak (so long as beak contrasts body of the chick/hen). Small amount worsted weight any shade of green or gold for nest. Size G hook (H if you crochet tight).<br />
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Leaving a 3 inch tail (for use later when sewing up the rear), chain 32 (30 2). <br />
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Body:<br />
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Row 1: Hdc into 3rd chain from hook. Hdc across to end, ch. 1, turn. 30 hdcs completed.<br />
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Rows 2 - 6: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each stitch across to end, maintaining stitch count of 30. <br />
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Row 7: chain 1, fold piece in half and sc in first stitch and each stitch across from the open end leaving a TOTAL of 10 stitches unworked (this will form the head). Now, begin working in rounds to form the head.<br />
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Head:<br />
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Round 8: chain 2, Hdc completely around, placing a marker (piece of contrast color yarn) to mark end of 1st round. (Do not join rounds; just continue around through completion of Round 12.)<br />
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Rounds 9 - 12: Hdc completely around in every stitch, noting the end of each round where marker is placed. Fasten off, leaving the top of the head open. <br />
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Note: Top of head will be closed by crocheting the comb to join it closed.<br />
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Beak: See picture for placement. Using yellow, gold or orange (contrast your hen), join yarn at bottom front of head and make at least 2 dcs to fashion a beak. Finish off, leaving a small tail to work under the next yarn (red) to create comb.<br />
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Comb: Using red, join yarn at end of beak, crocheting over beak tail and comb joining tail, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, etc.when it looks good to you with a number of stitches across the front and top of the head, also closing up the top of the hen's head, its done. Fasten off when satisfied with the comb, at the back of the hen's neck. <br />
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Rear of hen: Using the 3 inch starter tail, either sc or sew up the rear end of the hen.<br />
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TAIL OPTIONAL: Make a pompon and attach at corner where hen's back and rear meet.<br />
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GRASS/NEST: At rear bottom of hen, join green (or nest color of your choice) and work one sc, skip 2 sts, 4dc (or 5) in next stitch, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, repeating around. Join/fasten off. Add eyes to both sides of face.</div>
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-24317290304425686512019-03-12T20:06:00.000-04:002019-03-12T20:06:15.600-04:00So, you've got cataracts? Me too.So off topic, I know.<br />
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I have had cataracts in both eyes for years. The left was the good eye, the right, the bad. My left eye was doing all the seeing. <br />
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It started off in a subtle way...colors were different with each eye. At first, it was differences in white, with the right eye white looked like cream. Our bedroom is painted Tuscan Gold. Eventually, with the left eye, it was indeed Tuscan gold while the right eye saw it as peach. I accepted as my vision gradually worsened.<br />
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In October 2018, I visited my Ophthalmologist knowing myself it was time. I've seen her for 25 years and she was well aware of my condition. Scheduling a surgery takes some preparation, and I wanted to get through the holidays and our personal family birthdays, anniversaries, etc. This took me to mid Feb. or March. <br />
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There was some tail chasing and miscommunication that I blame on the doctor's staff--but I completely trust the doctor. So after rescheduling once, and getting all the pre-op details worked out, I had the right eye "done" on March 1st. <br />
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I chose to stay nearsighted. I did not opt for the out-of-pocket expensive "premium" lens - I went with what my insurance would cover, and for good reason. While my doctor preferred the premium lens, she admitted it isn't for everyone. My advice to you all is "do your own research." New doesn't mean best, and expensive doesn't mean better. Also, with premium lenses you might need glasses anyhow, at least for reading.<br />
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1) I knit, crochet, sew, enjoy using the computer without glasses, and for what seems like forever have worn glasses only to drive, watch a theater movie, and while watching a t.v. show while sitting across the room. I never wear them around the office, but I do when I have occasion to go out about town during lunch hour. Coworkers are surprised when they see me wearing glasses. So, I chose to stay nearsighted. I didn't care about driving and movies.<br />
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2) My left eye doesn't require surgery...yet. It may never require surgery. My right eye was so bad, I had no idea how bad until the cataract was removed. I mean, I knew it was bad - it was like looking through a dirty glass smeared with vaseline. The cataract was smack in the middle of my eye and obstructing my vision, and had become legally blind for driving. The cataract in the left eye is in the back and to the left and a different type altogether. Maybe my vision can outlive it? So, I'd have had to wear glasses for far, with a dummy lens in the right eye, and near with a dummy lens in the left eye. What was the point? I'd rather wear no glasses and see near. It it what I'm used to.<br />
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So, it made no sense to operate on the left eye. I'm abnormal. I'm an anomaly. I WAS HAPPY to not have to "do" the 2nd eye. However, now that I've gone through the surgery, I'd totally have the 2nd eye done when and if the time comes.<br />
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What to expect. Ask your doctor - there are many variations. <br />
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I used prescription eye drops for 3 days before surgery.<br />
No aspirin for a week before surgery.<br />
No food or drink after midnight the night before.<br />
Day of, showered but wore no makeup, hairspray, lotions, creams, deodorant.<br />
You are not allowed to take certain meds (your doc will tell you what is ok).<br />
I was in a hospital out-patient facility.<br />
I had to arrive two full hours before surgery to check in, fill out paperwork, sign papers, get prepped for surgery.<br />
I was in a hospital gown, hospital socks, and allowed to wear my own panties. (Some places will drape you in a gown with your clothes underneath.)<br />
My blood pressure, temperature and glucose reading were taken.<br />
I was prepped with an IV for later use by the anesthesiologist.<br />
My pupil was dilated.<br />
I met with the anesthesiologist. I met with my doctor. I was wheeled into the operating room.<br />
I was repositioned on the gurney by skooting up to the top of the bed, and it was special in that there was an indentation for my head, and it was quite comfortable. My face was draped, and I was knocked out for a whole 5 minutes or so with general anesthesia by IV, then I was awakened for the surgery.<br />
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During the 5 minutes that I was unconscious, a needle was inserted into my eye to numb it. I knew this was going to happen, and when I awoke, I was calm and fine.<br />
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My doctor spoke to me and told me where I was and what was happening, and what was going to happen. She said if she asks me questions, I am to respond. She never asked me anything during the operation.*<br />
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I didn't "see" what was happening, but I saw 3 blurred lights. <br />
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I didn't feel anything happening, but I did know when the eye was irrigated or what felt like irrigation. It seemed that I could "see" pond ripples and felt wet. If it wasn't irrigation, I don't have a clue what it was.<br />
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I heard everything; my doctor encouraged me that I was doing fine. In my mind, I was thinking "I've had worse dental procedures." That seemed to keep me calm and focused on getting this over with.<br />
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At one point, the doctor called someone over to take a closer look at my cataract - apparently, I make pretty cataracts. She was the 2nd doctor to say my cataracts were lovely. The retina specialist said "actually, your cataract is quite beautiful." Funny, that.<br />
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When the operation was done, I was told it was done. I said something like "that's it" and she said yes, all done. *I said you didn't give me any instruction during the entire operation and she said that was because it went perfectly.<br />
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So, I'm wheeled out on the same gurney into the recovery room. <br />
My eye was not taped shut, nor was it covered with gauze. <br />
I had a clear ventilated eye shield that I could see through. <br />
I could see, yes, but my right eye was playing tricks. My vision seemed black and white, and it looked as if everything I viewed was framed like a sunny side egg, only the yolk was cigarette ashes. I can only assume that my brain was still seeing through the cataract that had been removed. At least that is how I make sense of it.<br />
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After a few minutes of adjusting, I was offered something to drink and eat. Tea and a muffin.<br />
Also, they like you to go tinkle before you leave, if you can. I could.<br />
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My husband drove me there and back. Facilities and hospitals will arrange transportation if you need it. All in all, we left home at 5:15 a.m. and were back home not later than 11:00 a.m.<br />
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I was tired, but you can't lay on the side of the operation, so I "sat" on the couch and slept about an hour and a half.<br />
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During the day, the vision continued to change; to get clearer, more colorful. My pupil was HUGE. It stayed dilated until the next day. I think that is an issue with me - my eyes dilate very well.<br />
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I had to use 3 different drops, at least 3 times a day. I'll be using one of them for 6 full weeks.<br />
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You have to be careful showering, washing your face, etc., and you'll definitely appreciate those "Terminator" sun glasses that make you want to say "I'll be back" time and again. They really are necessary!!!!<br />
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My vision during follow up examination had "over corrected" in that my mid to far vision was superb. I was told as the eye healed, and swelling and/or inflammation (?) subside, the vision would change. It did. <br />
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My surgery was on a Friday; I went back to work on Wednesday. I don't know about you, but I NEEDED that time to recover. I've had a hard time sleeping since the surgery, and I think it's about wearing the eye shield at night, and just general anxiety. <br />
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It has been a week and a half since the surgery. I'm very happy with the outcome. I can see up close without glasses perfectly fine, and with my last set of prescription glasses I can see far perfectly fine.<br />
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I think had the cataracts in BOTH eyes progressed together, it would have been more pressing to do this much sooner than I did. Quite honestly, the worst part of the surgery was getting up at 5 am, that darned IV in my hand, and the bit of uncomfortable sleeping that I've experienced.<br />
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Don't be scared, and don't delay. This surgery is so worth it. D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-6344836291052163952018-06-04T19:26:00.000-04:002018-06-04T19:30:07.366-04:00Teacup Trivets / Hotpads<blockquote class="" type="cite">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">H hook, worsted weight COTTON yarn in 2 complimentary or contrasting colors</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Note, sometimes you'll work into the chain up at row's end, sometimes not.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-weight: normal;">Using 2 strands together of Main color 1, chain 16</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Row 1: 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 2hdc in next ch, 1hdc in each ch across until 2 chains remain; 2hdc in next ch, 1 hdc in last. [17 hdc total] ch 2, turn</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-weight: normal;">Row 2: 1hdc in first/same stitch as ch 2. 2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in each of next 12 st, 2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next st. [18 hdc total] ch 2, turn</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-weight: normal;">Row 3: 1hdc in 1st/same stitch as ch 2, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next 14 st, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next. [20 hdc], ch 2, turn</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-weight: normal;">Row 4: 1hdc in 1st/same st as ch 2, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next 16 st, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next [22 hdc], ch 2, turn</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-weight: normal;">Row 5: 1hdc in 1st/same st as ch 2, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next 18, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next [24 hdc], ch 2 (piece will not get wider than 24 stitches)</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-weight: normal;">Row 6 - 7: 1 hsc in 1st/same stitch as ch 2, 1hsc in each stitch across to end, [24 hdc] ch 2, turn</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif; font-weight: normal;">Row 8: 1 hdc in first/same stitch as ch 2, 1hdc in each stitch across to end, [24 hdc] chain<span class="">9 to work handle....</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">HANDLE: slip stitch to side of row 4, ch 1, turn. Working into chain, 1 hdc in same st as ch 1. 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next ch. 2 hdc in next ch, 1 hdc in next. 2hdc in next ch, 1 hdc in next. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2hdc in next, 1 in next, 2 in what should be last. (Any variation of this is fine, so long as your handle curves.) </span><span class="" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Top of row 8 is returned to.</span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="" style="font-weight: normal;">Row 9: 1 SINGLE CROCHET into each stitch across [24 sc total], but do NOT ch, do not fasten off.</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="" style="font-weight: normal;">Color change to Color 2 by pulling up a loop [represents the ch 1 of this row] through the last loop of Color 1; pull color 1 TIGHTLY and cut tail 2.5 inches long. Leaving a 2.5 inch tail of Color 2 as well; weave and trim both tails later.</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="" style="font-weight: normal;">Row 10: 1 SINGLE CROCHET in 1st/same stitch as ch 1, 1sc across to end [24 sc] ch 2, turn</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="" style="font-weight: normal;">Rows 11 to 12: Work even, maintaining 24 stitch count, by working 1 hdc in each stitch across, ch 2, turn</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="" style="font-weight: normal;">Row 13: Work even, maintaining 24 stitch count, by working 1 hdc in each stitch across, ch 1</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="" style="font-weight: normal;">Row 14: 1 SINGLE CROCHET in each stitch across, maintaining 24 stitch count, fasten off, weave in and trim all tails.</span></span></h4>
D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-36021765385130431792018-05-06T18:21:00.000-04:002019-03-12T20:15:34.987-04:00Shakespeare Scarf - crochet - wavy/ripple/potato chip<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">After seeing lots of "ripple" and "potato chip" type scarves, I made up my own which looks like an accordion.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Worsted weight and an I hook - LOOSELY chain 180. Do not crochet too tight; you want long stitches or you will be stuck with needing a 4th round.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Row 1: 1dc in 4th ch from hook. *2dc in next ch, 1dc in next ch*, repeat from * to * to end.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Row 2: Turn, ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch. *2dc in next stitch*, repeat from * to * to end. </span></h3>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Row 3: Turn, ch 3, *2dc in next stitch, 1dc in next*, repeat from * to * to end. </span></h3>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Fasten off, weave in tails, twist scarf onto itself in a spiral stack. </span></h3>
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<br /><span style="font-kerning: none;">To wear, expand lengthwise, fold in half, drape around neck, slip 2 ends through the loop created around the neck when folded in half and it looks like a Shakespearean collar when worn.</span></h3>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">This can be made in less than 2 hours, if you're fast 😀.</span><div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; min-height: 16px;">
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-57884733289189033472017-11-28T20:23:00.001-05:002017-12-01T18:06:20.482-05:00Mini Christmas Stocking - Ornament, Money Holder<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Begin with magic circle, chain 1. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Round 1 - Work 10 Double Crochet (DC) into magic circle; cinch closed. Join with slip stitch, chain 1 (you will have TEN stitches--the 1st chain (ch) is part of your first DC).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQq8qAiEP4JwLvsGnJsxgYnT9OZ5DQYBdAnyjdJzdnvkZ3RGXgoPvA-FtBySLWWgt9Jj0JQDJiJz2LTOpQiuptahMhPpgRKcBLVkE2U83q1rSQpSJzxbAtiugWBnHCdhIIQD-HkS3dsgY/s1600/1a.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="404" data-original-width="414" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQq8qAiEP4JwLvsGnJsxgYnT9OZ5DQYBdAnyjdJzdnvkZ3RGXgoPvA-FtBySLWWgt9Jj0JQDJiJz2LTOpQiuptahMhPpgRKcBLVkE2U83q1rSQpSJzxbAtiugWBnHCdhIIQD-HkS3dsgY/s320/1a.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Your project will form a cup. Work around as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Round 2 - 1 SC in same stitch as join, 1SC in each stitch around, join, ch 1. </span></div>
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Take a moment now to weave in the tail. Or, pull it through and weave it later.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Round 3 - 1 SC in each stitch, join, ch 1.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Now, working in </span><b>ROWS, </b><span style="font-size: large;">form the heal:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWO1tZU1pNLWsVpLYs-HsX6QCbeOmm2PgFWr1ICL96jUWRnlOc1c6TlU5M-T76lEGAOUDIgVI2NoLO0GwyR1N1zJL0FPSaMExOqENsT2cORUhVRGOpPQE6Ml9IJ44HLr6WAJe2yrQeRQ/s1600/1b.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="406" data-original-width="414" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWO1tZU1pNLWsVpLYs-HsX6QCbeOmm2PgFWr1ICL96jUWRnlOc1c6TlU5M-T76lEGAOUDIgVI2NoLO0GwyR1N1zJL0FPSaMExOqENsT2cORUhVRGOpPQE6Ml9IJ44HLr6WAJe2yrQeRQ/s320/1b.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>ROW</b> 4 - 1 SC in same stitch as join, 1 SC in each of next 4 stitches (totals 5 stitches). Leave remaining stitches unworked, ch 1, turn.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>ROW </b>5 -1 SC in same stitch as join, 1 SC in each of next 4 stitches, ch 1, turn.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>ROW </b>6 - 1 SC in same stitch as join, 1 SC in each of next 4 stitches, <b>but do not turn</b>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Fold the heal (last 3 rows) on itself, and join with at slip stitch as shown above. </span><span style="font-size: large;"><b style="text-decoration: underline;">Note:</b> Last 3 rows folded together (heal) leave a small hole at the fold (see photo above, bottom right). It is insignificant overall; leave it be.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next, working in <b>ROUNDS</b> complete as follows:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsMsKLDZJFBUThnbYmCsegrGuHLdC1XcAbhK4_9T2AhY0ugP_3JCluZXmJWnOXHfVBugZrPE3TU1sUjtmlajNK9JbAPAnNVXZO5aYmxiJZWQuw1uQ4ohWPbgvxjUid9zme6h2fs3xYHg/s1600/1c.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="416" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSsMsKLDZJFBUThnbYmCsegrGuHLdC1XcAbhK4_9T2AhY0ugP_3JCluZXmJWnOXHfVBugZrPE3TU1sUjtmlajNK9JbAPAnNVXZO5aYmxiJZWQuw1uQ4ohWPbgvxjUid9zme6h2fs3xYHg/s320/1c.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>ROUND</b> 7 - Chain 1, work 2 SC evenly spaced into the side of the last 3 rows. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next, working into the prior <b>round</b>, make 1 SC into each of the next 5 stitches. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Work 2 SC evenly spaced into the other side of the last 3 rows. This yields 9 stitches. Make 1 SC at the join, to total 10 stitches. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DX3So8TDWwrADeG47oM_cBMnR_LckJGeTXa89gnMATKsDhotiL-IZRmTiKNFhAs5cQdvmasDCp_sKko6KSDGeLRYEe8jwhUH3z29o4IosnTbQFm3ks3hpgAvZSOTFz4_wy17s52YEjI/s1600/1d.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="204" data-original-width="413" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DX3So8TDWwrADeG47oM_cBMnR_LckJGeTXa89gnMATKsDhotiL-IZRmTiKNFhAs5cQdvmasDCp_sKko6KSDGeLRYEe8jwhUH3z29o4IosnTbQFm3ks3hpgAvZSOTFz4_wy17s52YEjI/s320/1d.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next, work in </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">CONTINUOUS ROUNDS (spiral crochet -- no joining) </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>4 rounds to center back. </b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX61qlMdJEEoFYNmfj171c5coUHG-0Y7W0Bs9j5BdrUaOAGuiFiC6Lh55RGnzaZuTKU-chyphenhyphenJxNxP5-6p0p3PnqjLiJjLEpngDNNZHYPlgtApGmX9NJq4i9stKGTspdm8cGhbGBiaNc_4w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-11-29+at+7.51.34+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="304" data-original-width="309" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX61qlMdJEEoFYNmfj171c5coUHG-0Y7W0Bs9j5BdrUaOAGuiFiC6Lh55RGnzaZuTKU-chyphenhyphenJxNxP5-6p0p3PnqjLiJjLEpngDNNZHYPlgtApGmX9NJq4i9stKGTspdm8cGhbGBiaNc_4w/s200/Screen+Shot+2017-11-29+at+7.51.34+PM.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Slip stitch, fasten off leaving</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">long tail to use as a loop to </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">hang the stocking.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDpTkm39oldKwrT61pDaSFJI5_wobTRBEsxBvQOq2XjuEnAzhpCvTNryd0ijIxHG6yNE0sFhgF1TPs0ahNTe9Xi4qp9Ux6OoV4MH91GhUJkt7S6mqSF3rvBcPiEwijzkswdGQNoPJ7Ec/s1600/1e.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="417" data-original-width="412" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDpTkm39oldKwrT61pDaSFJI5_wobTRBEsxBvQOq2XjuEnAzhpCvTNryd0ijIxHG6yNE0sFhgF1TPs0ahNTe9Xi4qp9Ux6OoV4MH91GhUJkt7S6mqSF3rvBcPiEwijzkswdGQNoPJ7Ec/s320/1e.png" width="316" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Contrasting cuff: Join yarn at center back, chain 2. Work 1 Half Double Crochet in each stitch around, join, fasten off; weave tail.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pull the main color yarn through the cuff to hang. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Weave in the toe tail (if you've not done this sooner).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpue_cPrveVFMAhwaVCwXx7jk3P9N2-ZGGpFOk5En5u-gGLAh_RdMzTrYYSP5FcKZCGHMwo27EYSWLgi_DInuxDbFDkK2pWUftduM3DvTUYowS0c49MHVc_9tqZpmw5q7jUghtkUdY20o/s1600/1f.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="303" data-original-width="277" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpue_cPrveVFMAhwaVCwXx7jk3P9N2-ZGGpFOk5En5u-gGLAh_RdMzTrYYSP5FcKZCGHMwo27EYSWLgi_DInuxDbFDkK2pWUftduM3DvTUYowS0c49MHVc_9tqZpmw5q7jUghtkUdY20o/s400/1f.png" width="365" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Finished stocking, a little bit of "stuffing" - and it makes a sweet gift, that can be hung on the tree, instead of a money card.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">I hope you enjoy it.</span></div>
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<br />D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-54440983003316160412017-03-06T21:57:00.000-05:002017-12-02T00:06:10.238-05:00stitch holdersEconomically, you could use a piece of yarn. A safety pin. A paper clip. I have; i do.<br />
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Quite extravagantly, you can purchase (or make) beaded gems. Use discarded costume earrings. <br />
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Somewhere in the middle, you can purchase commercial stitch holders made of plastic.<br />
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Meanwhile, how about bobby pins? I recently went to a big box pharmacy store and for $2 bought 100 bobby pins, in the color of steel. Plain metal. Not shaded blonde, brunette, raven, redhead. Silver/metal.<br />
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I mentioned to the cashier that I was hoping to have found them coated in hot pink, or deep purple, or shocking blue...and she replied....paint them with nail polish. VOILA. What a great idea.<br />
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The beauty part of using bobby pins is that they easily slip on and off a stitch. Push on, pull off. No clasp to open, no paper clip to push together/pull apart, no yarn to fiddle with. Using them is akin to working a precision like spear....boom. Removing them; moving them - just as easy.<br />
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To transform them, I left a few of them on the original cardboard, and separated them. I painted them and left them for a few days to dry. I repeated this 3 times with the different polishes as shown.<br />
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So, do consider the humble bobby pin for your stitch holding needs. Here are some of mine, transformed. After adequate drying, its a good idea to slip them onto and off of folded paper a few times to break them in and allow any excess polish on the edges to transfer to the paper, if at all. You'd never want to ruin a project with color transfer, so do be careful. I do believe, however, there is likely little chance of harm. Over time, the polish cures as hard as can be.<br />
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My favorites are the deep red ones. The silver pins are unpolished, as purchased. I put these to work straightaway. :)<br />
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<br />D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-71973238202397321352016-12-26T19:23:00.001-05:002017-12-01T18:06:31.462-05:00Candy Cane Hobby Horse cover cozy<div style="text-align: justify;">
Because sometimes you DO need a hobby horse candy cane cover. [Pattern at end of post.]<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8nXq3JxMwuW4RDlT_XI2w-n3AoZTI-fdUqTP34SvJd7CKGTfDmQ22zocv7EDVcop6zxN35ByqkmSJ4-E_V0nW8m7C-LW7wFStCDjT1gtOUlaGKKXQNdUuXIMRFPAOJz5n3Q3UrIIUK7M/s1600/Candy+Cane+Hobby+Horse.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8nXq3JxMwuW4RDlT_XI2w-n3AoZTI-fdUqTP34SvJd7CKGTfDmQ22zocv7EDVcop6zxN35ByqkmSJ4-E_V0nW8m7C-LW7wFStCDjT1gtOUlaGKKXQNdUuXIMRFPAOJz5n3Q3UrIIUK7M/s320/Candy+Cane+Hobby+Horse.png" width="274" /></a></div>
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Many years ago, I came across this photo below, but it<span style="text-align: left;"> </span>has disappeared from the internet, never to be found. If it belongs to YOU, please leave a comment below and let me know. Meanwhile, I intended to make these for many years, and never got around to it. I crochet more than I knit, and I tend to crochet gifts, and i tend to get tied up in all of that. </div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">This year, I went looking for the pattern, and I found this photo over at yarnyuck.blogspot.com:</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-o2Icy9zSJJk8RE6nnbDo1Szxp7lxgHWPFihrGrbyjUJaBW98dXRuNRJZS1e53KLB7oN-TffYGtIiieULPM0Ck8ZP3psrxJSrIE-YkBXT1W3cyEWqy6BI7fgZcvtmKbj-lkrdOTp0B8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-12-26+at+6.14.41+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-o2Icy9zSJJk8RE6nnbDo1Szxp7lxgHWPFihrGrbyjUJaBW98dXRuNRJZS1e53KLB7oN-TffYGtIiieULPM0Ck8ZP3psrxJSrIE-YkBXT1W3cyEWqy6BI7fgZcvtmKbj-lkrdOTp0B8/s200/Screen+Shot+2016-12-26+at+6.14.41+PM.png" width="141" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">It seemed to me, these were from the same pattern, but Yarnyuck didn't have the pattern; nor did Yarnyuck give these a thumbs up. What I know about "crochet kitsch" is that one person's trash is another person's treasure, and a few comments were looking for the pattern. I'm in the "yay" column, not the "neigh" column. I'm punny, yes, I am.</span></div>
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This year, I stole some time from the hectic festivities of Christmas shopping, partying, celebrating and seasonal gift making, and tried my hand at this hobby horse candy cane cover/cozy. I LOVE IT.</div>
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The 3 differences are, no bells under the nose, no chain stitch for the rein - just plain red yarn, and I didn't tie it in a bow around the candy cane. Totally unneeded. The cane stays in all by itself by hooking into the nose. In all its glory, here is my take on the pony, together with a pattern I wrote up below if you, like me, think this is a holiday project to give and/or hang on your tree. Enjoy.</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Pattern: </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Worsted weight yarn, any color. Size G American hook.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ch 25.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Rows 1- 6 : sc in each stitch and <u>DO NOT make a turning chain at the end/start of the row</u>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Row 7: Fold in half. Ch 1, sc 5 stitches through both loops of each stitch to close neck.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Working in continuous rounds, do not join. Use the bottom of the nose as your "marker" for each round</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Round 1: SC 2, DECREASE, SC completely around to bottom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Round 2: SC 8, DECREASE, SC completely around to bottom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">(with the first 2 rounds, you accomplished a decrease on each side of the nose; you'll continue with a few more decreases)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Round 3: SC to top of nose, DECREASE, SC around to bottom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Round 4: SC in each stitch around to bottom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Round 5: 1 SC, DEC, SC 4, DEC, SC to bottom.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Round 6: SC 1, DEC, around, fasten off, use tail to sew nose closed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">MANE: Using 2 strands for each fringe (I used horse color and a contrasting color) close up back of head by pulling fringe through both sides from top of head to bottom of head. At the bottom of the neck, catch the starting tail in the fringe to secure. When done fringing, cut it all to an even length.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">EARS: Make 2 - leave a starting and ending tail to affix to head - ch 3, 1SC into 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc into next chain; fasten off. For FIRST ear, using both starting and ending tails, pull tails through both sides of the heat to affix, tie in a knot, weave tails through the fringe on mane, and cut to length of fringe. For SECOND ear, pull tails through to affix, with one of the tails, FASTEN A LOOP TO THE TOP OF THE HORSE FOR HANGING, then weave the remainder through the mane, and cut to size.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">For the rein, I did not chain…I used red yarn, and threaded a needed. Through the bottom of the nose/neck area, I pulled the yarn through one stitch from side to side, leaving the tails hang down. Using each tail, I separately threaded a needle and pulled one tail around the nose and under 1 stitch at the top of the nose from right to left; then the other from left to right. At the top of the nose, I tied the tails together, and ran them down the sides of the nose and under the nose, tacked them under the nose with a stitch, tied a bow, double knotted the bow and cut the unneeded extra length. If YOU wanted to use chained yarn for the rein, I suggest a thin sock weight yarn, otherwise I think it would look clunky. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I was playing with working the ears directly into the row where they are placed, but it was frustrating me, so I did them separately. If anyone can figure out a better way to do the ears, feel free.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Lastly, I affixed with glue the google eyes; one could easily make stitched eyes instead.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">If you like the pattern, please leave a comment below. HAPPY HOLIDAYS.</span></div>
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-3221030725074570592016-11-09T18:22:00.001-05:002017-12-01T17:25:24.134-05:00Never before taken a bathroom selfie...<div>
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When I was 10, living in Newark, NJ, I spent a lot of after school and evening time at the Salvation Army "Boys" Club on Providence Street. It kept me, heck, it kept us all, off the streets and out of trouble. Part of belonging to "the Boys Club" was going to summer camp, at Camp Tecumseh in Pittstown, NJ. During the ride to camp, we'd sing on the bus. I loved the bus rides, and really loved going to camp each summer. And, I was a pretty good singer. </div>
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So when I was 10, I went to camp for 2 sessions - if I'm not mistaken, a session was 8 or 9 days, and I was there for 2x as long. When I returned, all the girls at the Boys Club were wearing crocheted vests. I asked them - where'd you get that. Oh, they all said "I made it myself." I was intrigued, interested. I wanted one. Badly. I wanted to learn to make one for myself. I asked the ladies in charge if I could learn, and I was told "sorry - we've moved on to other things." That was that. I think we learned next how to make paper mache. Or play bingo. Or basketball. Or, we put on a show. Or.... At 13, we moved, and hanging out at the Boys Club was over for me.</div>
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When I was 16ish, I learned how to crochet. Not because I wanted to make myself a vest - that wasn't a thought in my brain. I wanted to make a blanket. Blankets. Lots and lots of blankets. I made granny square blankets for everyone I loved (and some I didn't love) because I was so excited to be doing it. And, lets face it, back in 1975/1976, acrylic yarn was cheap! </div>
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I continued to crochet - hats, scarves, baby blankets. Thread doll clothes for my daughter's Barbie dolls (I loved them, and still do - especially knit doll clothes). Then, comes along the INTERNET - where one can find a treasure trove of patterns, photos, directions, instructions.....for crochet and any craft you can think of. So one evening I discovered the pattern for this vest. IT BROUGHT BACK SO MANY MEMORIES - and one memory of loss and denial. I didn't get to make that vest....when I was 10. But there it was on a GROOVY site. Now, it can be found via the wayback machine: http://web.archive.org/web/20001013071332/www.cei.net/~vchisam/groovy/7502.html</div>
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In my forties, I decided to make this vest - in all its ugliness. Worsted weight acrylic yarn, in my favorite color (teal), totally made of chains, totally awful, totally ugly, and, with pompons~! I love it. I wear it from time to time (maybe 3 times a year), It isn't the prettiest item in my wardrobe, but it is one of my favorites. </div>
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So, I call this my "unbreak my 10-year-old heart vest" because it healed a wound caused in my childhood that I didn't even realize I was harboring. I know, I know - worse things can happen in our childhoods than this - and believe me, they did. But, THIS is not the place for that...THIS is a place of yarny joy.</div>
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I am never so self-indulgent here, and I have not been posting here so much anymore (there are so many better blogs/websites for you to visit), but, I was posting this on Ravelry, and the story behind this vest was just too much to put there. So, I put it here.</div>
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Recently, someone told me a similar story. She wanted a set of bride/groom "toasting glasses" for her wedding 20 years ago. "Champagne flutes" in fancy words. Sounds ritzy titzy, huh? She was talked out of buying them by her mother (or was it her mother-in-law?) - because they were useless, an indulgence, too expensive, would be used just once and put in a cupboard --- so many "reasons." She said that still, 20 years later, she wishes she had bought those flutes. I told her about my vest, and how making it in my 40s (and I'm now approaching 60) healed my own little girl heart. I suggested she treat herself this holiday season, if she needed a REASON, to those champagne flutes - and to enjoy them, and start tradition, and toast her husband every New Year with them. It will heal her. I hope she bought them~!</div>
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-9370061389794805442015-10-31T20:29:00.001-04:002015-10-31T20:29:39.366-04:00Book review: Crocheter's Skill-Building Workshop - Author: Dora OhrensteinWow, thumbs up!<br />
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This is a great book for anyone interested in crochet. It is especially informative for beginners.<br />
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I like how the book starts with basics and builds, and covers everything I feel a new crocheter absolutely NEEDS to know. It builds upon skills, stitches, techniques, and explains and illustrates more than 1 way to do things. For instance, when working in the round, a person may only learn to chain X, join to form a ring, and work into the ring. However, it can also be accomplished by working into 1 chain, or by forming a magic circle. Dora Ohrenstein covers and illustrates all three methods. She also covers spiral rounds, and while she doesn't illustrate tube rounds, she references them and adds several patterns for tubed rounds, including a hat.<br />
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Later in the book, she explains and illustrates specialty stitches, textural stitches, lace stitches, and gives some great overall tips.<br />
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My only disagreement is that I feel gauge doesn't always matter. Lets face it, if you're creating a blanket, placemat, potholder, dishcloth -- a smudge larger or a smidgen smaller REALLY isn't going to matter. If the item is meant to fit, gauge maters, if the fit isn't an issue, when one uses the suggested yarn weight and hook size, it isn't the end of the world.<br />
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Overall, highly recommended to anyone who wants to learn to crochet, or newbies. Could make a great teaching tool as well.<br />
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<br />D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-39248259724458751882015-06-16T20:15:00.001-04:002015-07-04T12:12:57.466-04:00Vintage Juliette Dress I've seen this all over the internet, and at some point, I don't remember where, the pattern was posted as well. This is an old pattern from .... the 60s? <br />
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Unless and until I'm told by the rightful owner to take it down, here it is:<br />
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<br />D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-16776668707211102882013-10-13T19:16:00.001-04:002017-12-02T00:06:17.409-05:00Joining rounds without "chain 3"Here is a shout out to Moogley. I bring Moogly to your attention since I've been telling a few crocheters about this method, and rather than reinvent the tutorial, I direct you to it. [link at end]<br />
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You'll discover a method for starting a round of double crochet without joining with a slip stitch and then chaining 3. Instead, you begin with a double crochet. The technique is called the standing double crochet; or is that the stitch name? I think the name is interchangeable to the stitch/technique.<br />
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Basically, its a trade off. For losing the chain 3, you get a fully fleshed double crochet, but you wind up with a tail at the top of the stitch. That tail must be dealt with as you finish the round, and even if you do not intend to fasten off and use another color, you must, and will have two tails in the same spot - beginning/end - to weave in. [Note: both the video and photo tutorial show different colors with each round.] So, were you to not want to change colors after each round, using this method you would still have to work as if you did - that is, cut your yarn in the last round after the join, and start the next round with the cut yarn.<br />
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Is there an advantage to working this way, or is the traditional join, chain 3 best? That depends on YOU. Give it a try and see what "look" you prefer.<br />
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Here is the link: http://www.mooglyblog.com/standing-double-crochet-joining/<br />
<br />D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-87338949445471344732013-08-31T10:27:00.000-04:002015-07-04T12:12:01.033-04:00Crochet LalaloopsyI had not known that the Lalaloopsy didn't begin as a crochet doll. I was surprised to see her plastic luster sitting on the toy shelf at Kmart. I guess it was a silly thought, but the notion came to me that the manufacturer of this plastic doll had seen the crochet version --- and quickly realized it had to be the other way around. Ha.<br />
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My daughter is 25, and much unlike her mother, her fascination with dolls has been lost since she was about 10. I on the other hand still have a love for Barbie, and creating knit and crochet outfits for Barbie. This Lalaloopsy doll, though, has tugged at my heart strings! </div>
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Over here: http://stitch11.com/lalaloopsy-inspired-doll/ you will find a crochet pattern for an inspired by Lalaloopsy doll. It is very straight forward and uncomplicated. Once you get the 2 legs made, you join them and the remainder of the doll up to the head is made in 1 continuous piece. The arms are made separately and sewn on, as are the hair curls. Best of all, Corina has offered the pattern for FREE. You'll find lots of good stuff on Corina's site~!</div>
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Here is my first attempt:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQf1apnJSsrICzjwXYTkFR8okl398tcn5M0W53Jrk7U0Q6IkqV463lu0rwOmIs74mrpIvtgzqKxWavYN1uogUlnfb8enczQNNrjGBzikPs5kWZxZVDCNwXqjHUj3PDjABIh6wMBZXwo4/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-08-31+at+7.53.02+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQf1apnJSsrICzjwXYTkFR8okl398tcn5M0W53Jrk7U0Q6IkqV463lu0rwOmIs74mrpIvtgzqKxWavYN1uogUlnfb8enczQNNrjGBzikPs5kWZxZVDCNwXqjHUj3PDjABIh6wMBZXwo4/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-08-31+at+7.53.02+AM.png" /></a>a close up of her head. At the time of this posting, I am working on her arms.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_MkgiuzHx0rHJd9AA3_aGb4LpVUEzFMIAsItEiUwykcjbIIaJ2JkOe-PFgLW5pVuoKAnSBGFgfblcsJ-_CxDvwGn_QRNBRHPhfgHmFy67fuH4A-sfT8qY0gp9CWbO3rV9f9X59w5xwI4/s1600/lala+body;+no+hair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_MkgiuzHx0rHJd9AA3_aGb4LpVUEzFMIAsItEiUwykcjbIIaJ2JkOe-PFgLW5pVuoKAnSBGFgfblcsJ-_CxDvwGn_QRNBRHPhfgHmFy67fuH4A-sfT8qY0gp9CWbO3rV9f9X59w5xwI4/s200/lala+body;+no+hair.jpg" width="200" /></a>This is the full photo, minus the hair on the top of her head and, oh yea, the arms.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizyxhI8v8yNYtKRr8NWhVfzA8wtkn3u5bp9CRdxUCRmLve0rEqzJc5lYesw7vJ22Pd2mcV0dlySF4Mii8bPIxBUrzBH2Qmwhjy3G4Q3FlRkzz2du2AugAIFGKUPXIIvTMaoqWyBvx7mVo/s1600/lala+eyes+centered.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizyxhI8v8yNYtKRr8NWhVfzA8wtkn3u5bp9CRdxUCRmLve0rEqzJc5lYesw7vJ22Pd2mcV0dlySF4Mii8bPIxBUrzBH2Qmwhjy3G4Q3FlRkzz2du2AugAIFGKUPXIIvTMaoqWyBvx7mVo/s1600/lala+eyes+centered.jpg" /></a>When I worked her facial features, I added a thread, after folding her head in half to determine the center of her face. The knot of the thread is down where her mouth is to be sewn. I centered the thread there to indicate the space between the mouth stitches. This thread was also useful in eye placement.</div>
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The buttons called for as eyes are 1 inch round, with 4 holes, and an outer rim. On this doll pictured, I used buttons that I had on hand, 3/4 inch, 2 holes, with a rim. I have since purchased the correct buttons on Ebay, as I intend to make a few more of these dolls.</div>
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AND FINISHED: <br />
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A Google search will bring up plenty of images. If you go to Ravelry.com, you can search through patterns there too. Some are free, some not. One is even knitted~! You'll also find tips for making her if you search through the projects made from the various patterns.</div>
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One SUPER tip is to do something to keep the head sitting without flopping atop the neck. I think the best idea is to use a few strips of plastic canvas together, crocheted around to make a sleeve to insert them into, then put it into the body so half sits into the body/neck, and the top half will go up into the head. Take a few stitches through the neck and this "neck core" to hold it into place. Thereafter, as you create the head and get it ready to stuff you can stuff around this core. </div>
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I didn't do anything but over stuff the neck in my first lala pictured - and after I added the hair curls, yes indeed, her head got heavy and floppy. I will take a few stitches around the neck to stabilize it, but next time I'll make a neck core.</div>
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Another tip is to use invisible crochet decreases--that is working only through the front loops when making the decrease. I chose to make regular decreases through both loops.</div>
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The manufactured Lalaloopsy line contains sewn "pillow" Lalaloopsies, minis, micros, princesses, mermaids, aliens, a nod to The Wizard of Oz, boys and all shades of skin tones. There are Laloopsies with yarn hair for play and styling....and accessories and costumes. </div>
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Best of all, this doll can be designed by you and your imagination. You choose the theme, the clothing colors, the skin tone and hair colors. You can make her in all skin tone and then make clothing. I think the possibilities are endless.</div>
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-68119089672381463182013-04-12T22:57:00.004-04:002017-12-02T00:06:43.638-05:00While Crochet is fun, there are RULES that should not be ignored<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Hello darling readers, wherever you come from and however you get here, welcome.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">This blog was put together to facilitate the teaching that I do. I wanted to have tips, tricks, rules, etc. in one place. I wanted to be able to refer my students here...and they could look around and, hopefully, find the answer they sought. Its plain and could be boring, but there is a good bit of information for the taking.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">The more topics I posted, the less I needed to post. Reason being, this blog isn't about ME, so I try not to make it personal. However, it is about YOU, what you need and helping you find it. I don't know everything there is to know, but I know some, and I love to share. To my students, I'll continue to refer you to this blog and if you bring issues to me, I'll deal with them here. To those from all over the world that stumble across this little blog, I hope you found what you were seeking, and that you enjoyed reading these posts. That written, two issues keep arising lately. They are as dealt with below.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">1. Where to put the hook (into what loops); and</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">2. Turning chains, the rules of turning chains, and keeping a correct stitch count.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">When you know what the stitches are called, how to execute them, and the abbreviations for them, you should be prepared to read patterns. Reading patterns is what sets you free and allows you to challenge and push yourself to learn new things and tackle projects that are labelled advanced, intermediate, expert. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">DO NOT BE AFRAID....because any time spent crocheting (or knitting) is never time wasted. Even if you've got to rip back and begin again, you've learned. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">To the real point of this post, lets talk chains:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">Q: Why the turning chain “rules” are so important.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">A: Because patterns ASSUME you know the rules. If you don’t know the rules, it could mess up the intended stitch count, and your entire project if this is compounded row after row, or round after round.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">In single crochet, we chain 1 and work into the same stitch--and that is the first SC of the row. To chain 1 and work the first sc into the 2nd stitch is wrong (unless that is what a pattern specifically states to do). Assuming you will follow the rule tho, lets look to the example below:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">For instance: A pattern of 30 stitches may read: ch 1, sc in <u>next</u> 5 stitches, hdc in next 20 stitches, sc to end (30 stitches). If you get to those “last 5”, and only have 4 stitches left, your total yield is 29, and you are a stitch off. The pattern MEANT the <u>next 5 stitches</u> to include the first stitch, where the chain exists. Unless otherwise specified, 1 chain will never replace the first single crochet.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">In double crochet, when chain 3 is how the row starts, this chain 3 gives you the required height to continue the row and <u>will almost always take the place of and represent the 1<sup>st</sup> double crochet of the row</u>, <b>so, the first stitch must remain UNWORKED, unless otherwise stated, since this ch 3 takes its place.</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">To work a dc into the same space as the initial ch3 creates an increase. Unless the pattern states to make the first dc into the same stitch as the ch3 turning chain, you are to work the first dc into the 2nd stitch. SOME PATTERNS WILL ASSUME YOU KNOW THIS, and not state "ch 3, takes the place of the first dc....." If you're working in dc, and your stitch count is off, look to this rule.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">For instance: A pattern of 30 stitches may read: ch3, dc in each stitch to end. (30). If you wind up with 31, you have likely placed 1 dc into the same stitch as the initial ch3.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">The above illustrations are fine and dandy IF YOU’RE PAYING ATTENTION to your stitch count. If you are not, however, and keep impounding the mistake(s), your margins will be wrong, your stitch counts will be off, and all subsequent rows will be wrong.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Commercial patterns are supposed to be written in compliance with universal guidelines. Sometimes, they are not. To make matters worse, personal patterns (off someone’s blog, website, ravelry, sent in an email, posted somewhere on the internet) are often written in the style of the crocheter and may fail to state what the pattern writer felt was obvious.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Bottom line: If you question your stitch count, look to the above examples as a good start to correcting what went wrong.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Next, lets get loopy: U</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">nless a pattern states to work in the front loops or the back loops, work through BOTH loops.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">To do differently creates a completely different fabric.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">Working in the front loops only creates a more stretchy fabric than intended, with a horizontal line across the work, and could create issues as to gauge and sizing when an item is intended to fit.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">Working in the back loops only creates subtle ridges in the fabric, like a Ruffles potato chip.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> It adds texture and thickness to the fabric and also creates issues as to gauge and sizing when an item is intended to fit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">Working through both loops is correct (unless stated otherwise). This creates a very sturdy fabric, and looks like long logs stacked on top of each other, and this is the correct/desired effect, unless otherwise stated.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11pt;">This is very important when creating a project that is intended to be a specified size or gauge, and should not be ignored.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">I am not the kind of teacher who makes a person hold their hook a certain way, but if you are learning from scratch, I will request that you thread your hand with yarn they way I do, and grab the yarn, and wrap the yarn (yarn over) in the same fashion that I do -- from the back, underneath the yarn, as it is the most efficient way -- however, if you already crochet, and have some "bad habits", there is only so much I will try to do to break those habits. If you're comfortable with your hold, your threading and your grabbing, and you're happy with the results of your work, I'm fine with that. However, the rules expressed above are not my opinion--they are the RIGHT way to crochet, and I will try to steer you in the right direction. I can't make you do what you don't want to do, but I can enlighten you with the right information, and suggest that you take it into consideration because it will make you a much more successful crocheter, with projects that turn out as they were intended to, and you'll no longer wonder why what you created doesn't look like the picture, or doesn't fit, or turned out with bad margins and is a wonky mess.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">This comes from love, it really does. I wish you luck with your margins, your stitch count and your projects.</span></span></div>
D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-16238971197179200332012-12-25T10:06:00.002-05:002017-12-02T00:06:43.611-05:00Crochet - don't be nervous; its easier than you think~!Breaking it down, there isn't a lot to it:<br />
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Slip Knot<br />
Single Crochet<br />
Half Double Crochet<br />
Double Crochet<br />
Triple Crochet<br />
Double Triple Crochet<br />
Slip Stitch<br />
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7 stitches, which when combined, can take the visually simple to eye-popping stunning.<br />
So those are the stitches.<br />
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These are the techniques:<br />
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Working from side to side.<br />
Working in the round.<br />
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Lastly, there are the turning chains:<br />
1 for single crochet, 2 for half double crochet, 3 for double crochet, 4 for triple and 5 for double triple.<br />
Turning chains at the beginning of each row or round in order to create the proper height for the stitch that is being utilized.<br />
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In putting that together, you learn how to thread the yarn through your hand, and how to comfortably hold your hook while executing the stitches.<br />
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Once you learn how to execute the stitches, and what they are called, you don't have a whole lot to worry about because you are going to follow a written pattern that contains all that information. A pattern tells you what yarn to use, the proper hook size, how many chains to start with, what stitches to use, what combination of stitches (if combos are used), and where to put them.<br />
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These are the basics -- don't be intimidated. <br />
<br />D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-13048713648030925182012-12-16T16:11:00.001-05:002015-07-04T14:55:51.583-04:00Make Two AnxietyReverse shaping--making the left and right sides of a vest;<br />
or making 2 sleeves, 2 pantlegs;<br />
or in the instance of stuffed animals and such, 2 ears, arms, legs, etc., can cause some anxiety for any stitcher. <br />
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This also holds true for items made in pairs - gloves, mittens, socks, slippers.<br />
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One solution that can often be used for both knit and crochet work is to make 2 simultaneously. In knitting, it can be easy enough to <u>work the same pieces together on the same needle</u> - this is particularly true for small pieces. On a doll dress, for instance, in knitting one can transfer the left sleeve stitches to a stitch holder, work across the back, transfer the right sleeve stitches to a stitch holder, work across the front, then work from left right front to left front side to side, or in the round, and take care of the sleeves last. I do this all the time. It ensures that the same amount of rows have been worked, and that the sleeves are indeed the same length. It works great for Barbie shorts/pants too. If you find you can use this method, please do. It will save some frustration.<br />
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Working two pieces at the same time can be done for crochet as well. I don't know many crocheters who don't own duplicate hooks in the same sizes. Make both pieces simultaneous, row by row, or round by round. If you don't have 2 of the same size hook, work one round, pull up a long loop as a place holder, and move to the other of the "pair" and work a round; continue alternating in that fashion. Is it more a pain to work with one hook on two pieces at the same time than use two separate hooks for each row or round? Perhaps. However, the payoff is knowing that each row or round is exactly the same as the other.<br />
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These tricks come in handy even for the most seasoned stitcher.<br />
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Lastly, another trick is to work from "both ends" of one skein at the same time. This is wonderful if you're making something small, or adding trim to a different area. I recently made a puff sleeve vest and found myself making the sleeves by working from both ends of one skein. By both ends, of course what is meant is the center pull and the outer portion of the skein...which assumes you're yarn is in skein form.<br />
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If you aren't using a skein, do yourself a favor and divide your yarn into 2 balls if you have intentions of working sleeves or similar.<br />
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That's it for now readers. Happy stitching to you all.D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-20829800854750968182012-10-17T19:06:00.001-04:002017-12-02T00:06:43.621-05:00Double Crochet - mind your margins~!After....<br />
(a) slip knot (where it all begins),<br />
(b) how to chain (the foundation of all things crochet), and<br />
(c) single crochet (and there you have it, you know how to crochet), the most important lesson is double crochet, from side to side, and controlling your margins.<br />
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Statistically I can't say that the majority of what we crochet contains double crochet, but in my personal experience and that of people I've taught who choose their own projects, double crochet is a major player, even if often combined with single and triple. <br />
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When you're working double crochet in the round, it seems easier to keep track of your stitches without counting and paying attention--you go on "auto pilot" sometimes. However, when you're working double crochet from side to side, you shouldn't go on autopilot until you have learned to mind your margins. Pay strict attention to your stitches, especially when you are a beginner. Its very easy to unintentionally: increase a stitch on the right hand side, and decrease a stitch on the left hand side. <br />
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Since we increase by making 2 stitches into the same stitch or space, and the initial chain 3 that is needed at the beginning of a DC row takes the place of the first DC, its crucial to pay attention to working the 2nd stitch and not placing a DC into the first stitch/same stitch as where the 3 chains reside. That -- would give you a resulting increase and ... too many stitches.<br />
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At the end of the row, NOT working into the top of the 3rd chain on the 3-chain-turning-chain-that-took-the-place-of-the-first-double-crochet-of-the-last-row......WHEW...creates a decrease. If you happily went along crocheting and not paying attention to these rules, it might appear in the first row where this happened that all is well. It might look fine after the next row also. However, at some point those stitches start making a visual difference, and then you have to rip back your work and begin again. Not so big a deal if your stitch count is 20. If your stitch count is 120 and you've made this mistake 5 rows back....ARGH....its enough to make you mad (that you didn't pay attention).<br />
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If it looks fan shaped, you've been adding stitches, most likely by working the first stitch after making 3 chains--which is an unintended increase. If your project looks like a triangle, a trapozoid, or some other shrinking margin, you've not been working the turning chain/last stitch of the previous row, or a combination of issues on both ends.<br />
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Your first course of action in ensuring "goal post" margins is to utilize the rules of double crochet...that is: 1) 3 chains take the place of the first DC, so make the actual DC in the 2nd stitch; and<br />
2) work that last stitch which is the turning chain. <br />
Another method to employ is to count your stitches after every row, as a backup. <br />
Also, look at your work from time to time - stop, look, see that all is well (or not). D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-61740947761862418072012-10-07T16:52:00.003-04:002017-12-02T00:06:43.633-05:00Bargains~!!!I know this will seem pretty basic, but if you're thinking about crocheting/knitting, you've got to buy supplies and likely you won't know exactly what to purchase, or that you could save $ when you do. Crochet/knitting - its as expensive as you wish it to be.<br />
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When you first go buying supplies, take a look in your Sunday newspaper fliers and/or the internet web pages for your local craft store. Around here (northern NJ) it would be ACMoore, Michaels, Joanns. All 3 have web coupons for 40-50% off one item, and/or 20-25% off the total order (sometimes with exceptions) but still, good deals. ACMoore and Michaels have Sunday fliers in the Star Ledger.</div>
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I'm fairly certain that each retailer will cross-honor the others' coupons, but with exceptions. Do use a 50% or 40% off coupon for a set of hooks or knitting needles (of course, you'll want to use it on your most expensive item, whatever it is).</div>
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When you are web surfing before you shop, pay attention also to what yarn is on sale. When you're new to crochet or knitting, you're going to want to start with worsted weight yarn. Buy what's on sale, because it really won't matter, except to your budget. Personally, I'd suggest Red Heart Super Saver in a light color (I do not suggest Caron's Simply Soft for learning), a size I crochet hook, or size 8 knitting needles. That right there is all you need to begin.</div>
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Eventually, you'll want to add supplies to your craft kit, like small sharp scissors, a fabric tape measure, darning needles. Stitch markers can purchased, or use paper clips, bobby pins, safety pins. Even a scrap piece of contrast color yarn will come in handy as stitch marker and, in fact, many people when crocheting amigurumi prefer the piece of yarn because rather than removing and replacing it, it can simply be left to run up alongside of the project until its done then .... just pull it out. Row counters are handy for knitting as are gauge rulers.</div>
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It doesn't hurt to have extra hooks/needles handy. Oftentimes we work on several projects at a time. It doesn't so much matter to crochet--you'd pull up a long loop to not lose your place. However, with knitting, necessarily your needles will be left behind with the project holding all the stitches in place. </div>
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Don't believe me? Think you'll never have more than one project going at a time? Trust me, you will.</div>
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Look at Ebay for oddlots of hooks, needles and accessories. Before you bid....know that you're getting a deal. Know ahead of time what that lot would cost you if purchased new. You'd wind up kicking yourself if you paid too much for used items...but speaking from experience, I've won some lovely craft lots on Ebay.</div>
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Also, if you are the garage sale type, you can sometimes find hooks/needles/etc.....but beware of second hand yarn. If it looks old, it is. If it looks raggedy, it is. If you have it in you to "sniff" garage sale yarn, take a small wiff. If it smells musty or smoky, its better to leave it behind. You could purchase it and wash it intact (stuffed into the legs of old pantyhose), but I've heard horror stories about garage sale yarn. Sometimes, mice had set up house in it and you won't know until you got to the middle and found some chewed ends and droppings. Ewwwwwwwwwwww. Beware of garage sale yarn. Also, if someone gives you yarn, examine it carefully and use your common sense whether or not its usable or should be trashed.</div>
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When you've learned how to crochet or knit, and you decide that you want to continue doing either (or both), you have plenty of time to move on to fancier more expensive yarns and treat yourself to pricey implements, gadgets and accessories, if you want to.</div>
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It doesn't have to be expensive when you start -- no one is happy with a first project cashmere potholder~!<br />
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-85622330448563605062012-09-23T10:09:00.001-04:002015-07-04T14:55:51.595-04:00Stuffing: poly fill vs. natural fiber fill (corn), and yarn for tight spacesWhen you're making a stuffed toy, pillow or amigurumi (ami) you have options for your stuffing material. For tight spaces like narrow arms and legs, I like to use yarn. It is easy to slip/stuff some yarn, the same color as the arm/leg, into the tube and be done with it. The benefit of that is:<br />
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a) you've got the yarn on hand; and<br />
b) it doesn't show through the stitches (for instance if your work is black, white poly fill can and show through).<br />
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With more than a tiny space to fill, your options are fill, such as polyester fill (polyfill/polyfil) or eco-friendly fiber fill made from corn. Mountain Mist brand makes both of these, but there other polyester fill brands on the market.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjE8q80-Aho8JDzA1CQBbEGFqOIy5YspQBZS_FkkDRGiekUrk1_z_-O58Hjn2eV7xzS0zBoJp3pLEaZDMjmifSayA9e1j1KfVpG_OO77rlq4zn69KdjrkjGTxvSWbVh7dRrgzof1b4OHQ/s1600/fiberfill.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjE8q80-Aho8JDzA1CQBbEGFqOIy5YspQBZS_FkkDRGiekUrk1_z_-O58Hjn2eV7xzS0zBoJp3pLEaZDMjmifSayA9e1j1KfVpG_OO77rlq4zn69KdjrkjGTxvSWbVh7dRrgzof1b4OHQ/s320/fiberfill.jpeg" width="280" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately, Mountain Mist Fiberfill, while boosting that it is eco-friendly, is a mess to work with. It is very fiber-y. After using it once, I decided against it. Small fibers were all over my immediate workspace, my table and my project. A thin dusting of it went everywhere. Worse, it went into my nose and I suspect into my lungs. After using it, I was sneezing it out! I cannot imagine it is good for the lungs, regardless of how it might be good for the environment. Also, it was crumbling out through the stitches of my project! Imagine giving a stuffed animal to a baby who is going to hug and love it and be sniffing out those fibers. Not good.</div>
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It has the feel and look of cotton candy--when you break a piece off, it literally breaks off. Also, I wondered how it would stand up to repeated washings, since it also reminded me of cotton balls. No one would intentionally use cotton balls to stuff a crochet/knit project unless they were desperate and never intended the item to be washed. Once washed, the item would likely stay flat and never "bounce back" into shape. So, the eco-friendly FIBER fill gets a thumbs down from me.</div>
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Conversely, this product from the same manufacturer gets a thumbs up:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd1qNVWvxHwRn2jxRLFIyc1iVZrgoHgsprVV9puyB_dF6X8WOcPtMgKfbXzdLqWeBcodhm9UO8VGrPbC3oHLkNUV91TmPThedPpvTBe7ZqSCPAqo5exivo5Meyd1AYIMyheR9M8hlnb1A/s1600/fiberloft.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd1qNVWvxHwRn2jxRLFIyc1iVZrgoHgsprVV9puyB_dF6X8WOcPtMgKfbXzdLqWeBcodhm9UO8VGrPbC3oHLkNUV91TmPThedPpvTBe7ZqSCPAqo5exivo5Meyd1AYIMyheR9M8hlnb1A/s1600/fiberloft.jpeg" /></a></div>
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Notice the "100% Polyester" on the bottom. The fibers are long spun strands that keep their shape, pull apart (not break apart) nicely, and when washed it will bounce back into shape. There is a reason this has been used for decades to stuff pillows and such.</div>
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By no means is Mountain Mist the only manufacturer of polyfill either, here are a two others:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqSV_eUwunJu0GiFk2NCzl4TPhRyrq8c7mMV25O43UAksRfZWdQxiyCLYAYma5BvvhyhmXMBueYU25Q-mEr87vGYV6Esg0po3sUQJbyl5Re1o_uNk70oJV2sAnXcEajeBN2hEcX7HEDI/s1600/polyfil.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqSV_eUwunJu0GiFk2NCzl4TPhRyrq8c7mMV25O43UAksRfZWdQxiyCLYAYma5BvvhyhmXMBueYU25Q-mEr87vGYV6Esg0po3sUQJbyl5Re1o_uNk70oJV2sAnXcEajeBN2hEcX7HEDI/s320/polyfil.jpeg" width="224" /></a></div>
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You have to love it when a product, such as polyfill - goes by the brand name poly-fil. That pretty much says it all!!!!<br />
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Lastly, the polyester fill is cheaper than the eco-friendly-corn-fill. <br />
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I've heard some very frugal crafty people will use scrap fabrics and scrap yarn to stuff their stuffies. I haven't done this, and I can't speak to it one way or the other, but its an option I thought I'd mention.<br />
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However you choose to stuff your projects, happy stuffing to you all.<br />
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-54153361489966385102012-09-03T18:25:00.003-04:002015-07-04T12:12:57.470-04:00Easy crochet blanket, made to whatever size you desire<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQphLTJgbiX9Fb9PCSscCT-vstJ-dawefAGqXXGwfYjtgvo7KNhesEcjrR-AED0JV9uF3z2TbzEixEuRg44tBZXWutH8svA65pdBBN7L8uJHJgNALeGV815F9kBoQOYllfAnABhAoG9o/s1600/croppedteddyandblanket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQphLTJgbiX9Fb9PCSscCT-vstJ-dawefAGqXXGwfYjtgvo7KNhesEcjrR-AED0JV9uF3z2TbzEixEuRg44tBZXWutH8svA65pdBBN7L8uJHJgNALeGV815F9kBoQOYllfAnABhAoG9o/s640/croppedteddyandblanket.jpg" width="465" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Easy "striped" blanket, worked from side to side, then turned 1/4. Sides become top and bottom, add fringe. Make in solid one color, 2 or 3 colors. Finished size depends on how many chains you start with (which determines the HEIGHT) of the blanket. See notes about changing colors.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I make this often and is so simple and basic that anyone could have, and may have, come up with the same idea. Feel free to make and sell finished blankets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Supplies: Worsted weight yarn, G or H hook. Gauge unimportant. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Make enough chains to represent the
desired HEIGHT you want the blanket to be.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Row 1: 1 Double Crochet into 4<sup>th</sup> chain from hook. 1 Double Crochet into each chain to end. Turn.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Row 2: Chain 3 (represents 1<sup>st</sup> DC now and
throughout). 1 DC into 2<sup>nd</sup>
stitch. Chain 1, skip 1 stitch in previous
row, make 1 DC into next stitch.*
Repeat * to * across until you reach the last 3 stitches. See below Special Instructions to finish this row.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS. IF your 4<sup>th</sup> stitch from the
end of the row contains 1 DC, then you will chain 1, skip the next stitch, make
1DC into the 2<sup>nd</sup> to last stitch, make 1 DC into the last
stitch. Your row will be
complete. Turn.... HOWEVER.......</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">IF your 4<sup>th</sup> stitch from
the end of the row is an unworked/skipped stitch, make 1 DC in the 3<sup>rd</sup>
stitch from the end, chain 1, skip 1 stitch and make TWO DC in the last
stitch. Your row will be
complete.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remaining “holey” rows of skipped
stitches and chains always begin with chain 3, 1 DC in 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch
(followed by chain 1 and skipped stitches across) and end 1 DC into each of the
last 2 stitches (preceded by the 3<sup>rd</sup> stitch from the row’s end
having been skipped/ch 1). </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: justify;">R</span><span style="text-align: justify;">OW 3: Chain 3, 1DC into 2</span><sup style="text-align: justify;">nd</sup><span style="text-align: justify;"> stitch, 1DC into each
stitch to end.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: justify;">ROW 4: Ch 3, 1DC into 2</span><sup style="text-align: justify;">nd</sup><span style="text-align: justify;"> stitch. *Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, make 1 DC into
next stitch.* Continue across to
last 3 stitches. Ch 1, skip one stitch, make 1DC in 2</span><sup style="text-align: justify;">nd</sup><span style="text-align: justify;"> from last
stitch, and 1DC in last stitch.</span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ROW 5 and 6, etc. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until blanket is
desired width. </span></span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Turn so the stripes are now vertical and add fringe to the ends in the
natural loops created at the sides (now top and bottom) using 3 or 4 strands of
yarn.</span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 27pt 0.0001pt 9pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 27pt 0.0001pt 9pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">IF YOU WISH TO MAKE THIS BLANKET ALL
ONE COLOR, continue repeating Rows 3 and 4 in pattern until you reach the
desired width, fringe the ends. Done.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 27pt 0.0001pt 9pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 27pt 0.0001pt 9pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">IF YOU WISH TO ADD DIFFERENT COLORED
STRIPES, at the end of a row of continuous DC (as in Row 3) fasten off old
color and leave the tail be as long as you want your fringe to be (the tail can
be incorporated into the fringing process). DO NOT TURN. GO TO THE BEGINNING OF THIS ROW AND add new color AND START AGAIN WITH ROW 3 (all DC across)
with next row being Row 4 (the “holey” row). As such, all color change rows start and end with Row
3, continuous DC all the way across.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The reason for not turning when changing colors is to keep the "front" and the "back" uniform. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">NOTE:
on the above pictured example, I had started and ended with pink, but
because it was so much pink and so little multi, when it was “done” I decided
to add 2 rows of multi color in all DC on each side for balance.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJfB3GdwHxlq1T3PWgion-DaVaY-P7_qhYSpJ9v996zJlo_zKCoNrFen5U9K2lyeYqpO1NgkbZCG397vJ3jFGo9Ueo1kJcYtgw1IoFWaoBzK3-UIw0HGb7l9ZYLrXBm2kQKXEqw6UZiko/s1600/ladders+side+to+side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJfB3GdwHxlq1T3PWgion-DaVaY-P7_qhYSpJ9v996zJlo_zKCoNrFen5U9K2lyeYqpO1NgkbZCG397vJ3jFGo9Ueo1kJcYtgw1IoFWaoBzK3-UIw0HGb7l9ZYLrXBm2kQKXEqw6UZiko/s200/ladders+side+to+side.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">^worked from side to side like this ^</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">...when desired WIDTH is reached, finish off.... give piece a 1/4 turn so the side margins become the top and bottom and stripes now run top to bottom, vertical (instead of side to side, horizontal), and add fringe through the loops now that the stitches run sideways.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYPlPNuVWfvDtvBefX2umjf_Ie7CcFedugt5G_bQQysykxSjgFkq3kU_2lXNwDXeHATgS2yA2zhlB3cOhg5PRhJMT61PXXumTQkqVKB3j8xRLTKZ3oboJMi_PUaq5Vpjj-2I_LWPT5dC0/s1600/ladders+turned.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYPlPNuVWfvDtvBefX2umjf_Ie7CcFedugt5G_bQQysykxSjgFkq3kU_2lXNwDXeHATgS2yA2zhlB3cOhg5PRhJMT61PXXumTQkqVKB3j8xRLTKZ3oboJMi_PUaq5Vpjj-2I_LWPT5dC0/s1600/ladders+turned.jpg" /></a></div>
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-16204358715578596662012-03-13T14:20:00.027-04:002017-12-01T17:58:36.396-05:00Reversible (two sided) granny square - the BEST pattern for one-color grannies!Most likely, you've never seen this pattern. I learned it in 1976. Betty, who taught me how to crochet, had amazing skills. Not sure this was her personal twist, but it has been my preferred method, even when presented with other directions. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Since it is turned each round, it is reversible - no right/wrong side, no front/back;----this</span> makes it perfect as a one-color-granny.<span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span>It also inhibits the "slant" some people produce on one-sided squares worked "around and around." I know this isn't an issue for everyone, but is an issue for some.<br />
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While optimal for continuous rounds of solid color (with a color change whenever the maker chooses), of course, the yarn can be cut after each round with new color added, as in traditional grannies. The "magic" happens in the first corner of each round, and I promise, its a great square!<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">PLEASE READ THROUGH THE DIRECTIONS before starting </span>so you know what is going to happen "before you get there." That is especially good advice for those who've made them differently--so you know how/why it is different--since the first corner of each round is unusual.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">REVERSIBLE GRANNY SQUARE</span> - with worsted weight yarn and a G or H hook:<br />
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Note, as written, this calls for 2 stitches between each cluster. If you desire 1 stitch between each cluster, that is fine, but you should instead make 4 chains at the start of each round, not 5. If you prefer no chains between clusters, you should at least make 1 chain between each of the two corner clusters and chain 4 at the start of each round.<br />
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The photos below are the first round, and the start of round 2; note after the chain 5 photo of round 2, the next photo shows the chain five flipped to the other side due to flipping the work.<br />
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chain 5, join with a slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9a7Zr-In4PL1PHrhIBIhy8eeH_SLZI8SVr3D1s0zGs8LVu7S-VykG5yX4pZmc9lpFiYO4LmO9P8fg0rY5gmgjtV1PlKnw2cmrBkuFQOF9ujPRpB9sSCobtZdwgu1fb-Sl05jWJtmDXSY/s1600/first+round+granny.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5780717179479271602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9a7Zr-In4PL1PHrhIBIhy8eeH_SLZI8SVr3D1s0zGs8LVu7S-VykG5yX4pZmc9lpFiYO4LmO9P8fg0rY5gmgjtV1PlKnw2cmrBkuFQOF9ujPRpB9sSCobtZdwgu1fb-Sl05jWJtmDXSY/s320/first+round+granny.jpg" style="height: 240px; margin-top: 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Round 1: </span>Make 5 chain stitches (these 5 chains represent 1 double crochet and 2 chains and will shape the LAST cluster in this round).</div>
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3 dc into the ring (1st cluster) ch 2,<br />
3 dc into the ring (2nd cluster) ch 2,<br />
3 dc into the ring (3rd cluster) ch 2,<br />
2 dc into the ring slip stitch into the 5-ch loop (<span style="font-weight: bold;">completes the 4th cluster and the first round</span>). <br />
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Chain 5 (starts the next round) and turn your square like a page in a book (to the left, assuming you are right handed).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJVkA5IRFAYnfdln1GEerb049ERSob6TI6YeWCbmgboBSA13lloAbp4XCrD1MIvFiHa1HB_EMyoxic1g8KWwV8oNFVfo1SswUJzOzDL5xb5spi2sgFpkCbfkW1G6YPW1j0qDe7afTcl8/s1600/1st+round+granny+join.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5780717760573920594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJVkA5IRFAYnfdln1GEerb049ERSob6TI6YeWCbmgboBSA13lloAbp4XCrD1MIvFiHa1HB_EMyoxic1g8KWwV8oNFVfo1SswUJzOzDL5xb5spi2sgFpkCbfkW1G6YPW1j0qDe7afTcl8/s320/1st+round+granny+join.jpg" style="height: 240px; margin-top: 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><- this photo illustrates finishing the first round; the photo above it illustrates how the round will look coming full around to the first 5 dc.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4FYY9YeGzmeh4mSFmXmq6og-bC3KIzUdS5m8Lzh3iCz_8sqQwLHsqrnLkefWlprDJ6WcFVqSALhiQXoH3I3c-inAh2X-iu9VTHuislSqmSQRKRcKG_RGlbgIP2PQTZ2YYHKc4sUFb3Hk/s1600/ch+5+1st+round+completed+granny.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5780718286594177938" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4FYY9YeGzmeh4mSFmXmq6og-bC3KIzUdS5m8Lzh3iCz_8sqQwLHsqrnLkefWlprDJ6WcFVqSALhiQXoH3I3c-inAh2X-iu9VTHuislSqmSQRKRcKG_RGlbgIP2PQTZ2YYHKc4sUFb3Hk/s320/ch+5+1st+round+completed+granny.jpg" style="height: 240px; margin-top: 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span><br />
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<b><- this photo is the first round completed, and the chain 5 of round 2 appears on the right hand side, BEFORE TURNING (like a page in a book) to the other side.</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJEgKH3ZPT7joNoy65f3jb_Z_6X3I-a6q1rLpxbH0oEwABodXKNzN3TRC3L3aYnSe7haPAkmjF-V-RcYOb2ZLHsTnKZhRnoaqNzfEMFnQeFvn_VraJcciT8QhuBKvpTljUxB0fx5CpkY/s1600/rd+2+ch5+flipped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5780719471624138338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJEgKH3ZPT7joNoy65f3jb_Z_6X3I-a6q1rLpxbH0oEwABodXKNzN3TRC3L3aYnSe7haPAkmjF-V-RcYOb2ZLHsTnKZhRnoaqNzfEMFnQeFvn_VraJcciT8QhuBKvpTljUxB0fx5CpkY/s320/rd+2+ch5+flipped.jpg" style="height: 240px; margin-top: 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;"><- this photo shows the square flipped to the other side; notice now that the chain 5 is on the left hand side.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL7AY-RNkM23e7LN6n8NuKjAfeWayp_KEjn3SEWIiPlyhY0jgjbk4lKsA2eGw4LYh2MA9VMl1MD_3ywoNXoSut17RCkLSN_gsuom1pAMcRk0E01jBXGDfIPcbAv0_LYwoedzvOQyNlWP4/s1600/rd2+ch5+plus+1+dc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5780719839405039602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL7AY-RNkM23e7LN6n8NuKjAfeWayp_KEjn3SEWIiPlyhY0jgjbk4lKsA2eGw4LYh2MA9VMl1MD_3ywoNXoSut17RCkLSN_gsuom1pAMcRk0E01jBXGDfIPcbAv0_LYwoedzvOQyNlWP4/s320/rd2+ch5+plus+1+dc.jpg" style="height: 240px; margin-top: 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;"><- this photo shows how the chain 5 bends to create the corner, and illustrates where the next 3 dc will be placed in round 2.</span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">The next photo shows all 3 dc placed into the same corner of round 2.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWacQvN6bHycnM7AH0SjPL0oKIg4H1B3YZuO9laZ6UqQ2jCzqTvkkMX57qEcs-A0zmoWH73Ej849U6c7_GG03hDr-N4462-eBkoAOCubTPVXp-ZFD4MWZ7MpGexM8IZu-yaMlm6iI1bs/s1600/rd+2+ch+5+plus+3dc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5780719843330548674" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZWacQvN6bHycnM7AH0SjPL0oKIg4H1B3YZuO9laZ6UqQ2jCzqTvkkMX57qEcs-A0zmoWH73Ej849U6c7_GG03hDr-N4462-eBkoAOCubTPVXp-ZFD4MWZ7MpGexM8IZu-yaMlm6iI1bs/s320/rd+2+ch+5+plus+3dc.jpg" style="height: 240px; margin-top: 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">ROUND 2:</span><br />
Note: Your square has been turned, and the chain 5 represents 1dc, 2 chs.<br />
Make 3dc into same corner space (represents 1/2 of this 2-cluster corner) ch 2.<br />
The remaining 1/2 of this 2 cluster corner will be completed as you finish this round.<br />
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In next corner make 3 dc , ch 2, 3dc, ch2, (second 2-cluster corner).<br />
In next corner make 3 dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 2 (third 2-cluster corner).<br />
In next corner make 3 dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch 2 (fourth 2-cluster corner).<br />
In last (which was the first) corner space, alongside and before the initial ch 5, make 2 dc, and slip stitch into ch-5 loop.<br />
This completes the round.<br />
Chain 5 and turn your square.<br />
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<b>Round 3:</b><br />
Note: Your square has been turned, and the chain 5 represents 1dc, 2 chs.<br />
Into same corner, make 3dc, ch 2 (half of the corner done; remainder to be completed as round is completed).<br />
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*Into next ch-2 space (NOT a corner): 3 dc, ch 2.<br />
Into corner space make 3dc, ch 2 3dc, ch 2.*<br />
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Continue around as established repeating from * to * until you complete this round at the corner with 2 dc, slip stitch into ch-5 loop. Chain 5, turn.<br />
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Successive rounds: As established in Round 3.<br />
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When your square is as large as you want it to be, sl st into the last 5 ch space, pull up a loop and cinch, cut yarn. ***<br />
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*** If you do want to change colors, remember to turn your square, then add the new color and chain 5 as the start of your corner, continuing as established in pattern.<br />
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FOR THOSE WHO RATHER HAVE ONE STITCH BETWEEN CLUSTERS, GO WITH THAT, REMEMBERING TO MAKE 4 CHAINS AT THE START OF EACH ROUND. <br />
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FOR THOSE WHO PREFER NO STITCHES BETWEEN CLUSTERS, YOU MUST STILL MAKE ONE CHAIN BETWEEN THE 2 CLUSTERS OF EACH CORNER, AND START WITH 4 CHAINS.</div>
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D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-56078217874772041582011-11-10T12:22:00.004-05:002012-10-17T18:26:47.997-04:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjn1jpMcnohCk14utXm8T93dHV68tVxJ2-NC3DNj4UDf4lsiarByGS5AphoGmPJLAWvRpiNdoWvJIEnmOEHhJFNbIBLx_1Hrko3HwnyIvVT8DSrJjg7yBgoIxvoieSoQTOCj0FGcs5-9I/s1600/MCCALLS.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673418920014950722" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjn1jpMcnohCk14utXm8T93dHV68tVxJ2-NC3DNj4UDf4lsiarByGS5AphoGmPJLAWvRpiNdoWvJIEnmOEHhJFNbIBLx_1Hrko3HwnyIvVT8DSrJjg7yBgoIxvoieSoQTOCj0FGcs5-9I/s320/MCCALLS.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 320px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 223px;" /></a><br />
On the off chance that someone sees this post--anyone have this pattern? It was published in the 1960s and was available via mail order through McCall's craft magazine. The patterns fit 10 1/2 inch dolls, like Toni, and is both knit and crochet, numbered 558-NB, and had the word "trousseau" in the advertisement. I've seen a few older posts online searching for this as well. There may even be a 2nd page of photos--I'd have to go looking for that. Anyhow, if you have this I would love to hear from you at yarncraft@mail2teacher.com. Thanks.D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-47710225939114328492010-12-25T13:58:00.001-05:002010-12-25T13:58:44.619-05:00HAPPY HOLIDAYS to allHowever you celebrate, my peace, joy and love be yours. DonnaD. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-46751048492243976012010-11-21T16:28:00.004-05:002010-11-21T17:48:54.513-05:00Crochet Designer, Jill Hanratty<div><span class="481252414-15112010"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;">Jill <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Hanratty</span> is a friend and co-worker. </span></span></span><span class="481252414-15112010"></span><span class="481252414-15112010"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;"> Over the past week, Jill participated in a blog tour for her current booklet published by Annie's Attic "Plus Size Fashions" - crochet designs for us more lusciously proportioned females. Please visit the links below, enjoy the tour, and familiarize yourself with this very lovely lady and talented designer.</span></span></span><span class="481252414-15112010"></span><span class="481252414-15112010"></span><br /></div> <div><span class="481252414-15112010"></span><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"> </span></div> <span class="481252414-15112010"><span class="884205716-12112010"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;">11/15: </span><a target="_blank" href="http://www.gocrochet.blogspot.com/"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;">www.gocrochet.blogspot.com</span></a></span></span><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"> </span><div><span class="884205716-12112010"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;">11/16: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.thisiscrochet.com/blog">www.thisiscrochet.com/blog</a></span></span></span></div> <div><span class="884205716-12112010"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;">11/17: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.shibaguyz.com/">www.shibaguyz.com</a></span></span></span></div> <div><span class="884205716-12112010"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;">11/18: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.jaybirddesigns.com/">www.jaybirddesigns.com</a></span></span></span></div> <div><span class="884205716-12112010"><span style="font-family:Tahoma;font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;">11/19: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.hookandneedle-designs.blogspot.com/">www.hookandneedle-designs.blogspot.com</a></span></span></span></div></span>D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-5235370537755099002010-11-21T12:25:00.007-05:002012-12-24T15:05:48.180-05:00I wanna make THIS<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YEaheWqg-V9P7Wpk54zLOkPG6EYXLaVpNaJVfBozVe0OoBGq9oWLFCAO7876t4R3VpSsg82arx2cS0pOTiG27dHxULC-eKTDwq9aFUYrjGWCClB-s3PyB3PKOfbaeIlfRperZypvjL0/s1600/patons+sweater+4+rett" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542055480337486994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8YEaheWqg-V9P7Wpk54zLOkPG6EYXLaVpNaJVfBozVe0OoBGq9oWLFCAO7876t4R3VpSsg82arx2cS0pOTiG27dHxULC-eKTDwq9aFUYrjGWCClB-s3PyB3PKOfbaeIlfRperZypvjL0/s320/patons+sweater+4+rett" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 320px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 209px;" /></a><br />
Isn't it lovely? Young? Artsy?<br />
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For a look through the entire booklet, see here:<br />
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http://www.patonsyarns.com/patternbook.php?PBS=500862<br />
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The collection of styles in this booklet are definitely geared to the 16 through mid twenties crowd. My daughter is 22. She has two (cloth) jumpers similar to this (one solid, one striped) and they look great on her. It is very versatile, with the ability to dress it up or down, and change the look by the colors worn underneath it, with tights, with jeans, etc.<br />
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This project has been a WIM of mine since I first saw the book. The pattern retails for just over $4.00 at your local craft chain, and can be purchased directly from Patons for a smidge cheaper as a pdf download. That's a deal considering how many projects are included in the booklet. With the needed yarn, perhaps this would cost about $40 to make. That's where I had to (temporarily) put on the brakes. Have I mentioned we're on a budget here in the Casa de Carlen?<br />
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Since the summer, money has been extremely tight. I'm trying to justifying this purchase since I have been: brown bagging lunch, not bought anything remotely "indulgent" in months, been making dinners largely out of the cupboard and freezer as much as possible, using my stash yarn for any and all recent projects............and... wouldn't this a) make a lovely Xmas gift for my daughter and b) keep me out of trouble? YES, I vote yes.<br />
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Print me an ACMoore coupon and come to mama~! I see a shopping trip in my very near future....and, I'll keep ya posted.<br />
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12/24/12 - edited to add: I DID make this. In a lovely caramel color, and will have to take a photo of my beautiful daughter wearing it and add it to this post!D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4678395237005628451.post-47482536750887241802010-11-21T12:03:00.004-05:002017-12-01T18:04:18.884-05:00Learning to knit - 2 sites (and an excellent cast on)CASTING ON is the most important step in your project. I don't know why some people continue to teach the simple cast on, where the pointer finger is used. This cast on is sloppy, and its main problem (and if you've used it, you know) is the useless string that occurs between stitches as you knit--the more stitches you have, the longer, more annoying, and in the way this string becomes. The reason it is called "THE FINGER" cast on isn't lost on me. Ha. The finger cast on is particularly awful if you are working in the round on circulars or dpns. Ok...point made.<br /><br />TADA - LONG TAIL CAST ON to the rescue. I tell my students that the long tail cast on - sometimes referred to as the sling shot cast on - <span style="font-style: italic;">might be</span> the most difficult thing they ever learn in knitting. It isn't that its difficult per se, it is just a little bit awkward at first.<br />This link will take you directly to the pdf download:<br /><br /> www.butlercountryknit.com/longtail.pdf<br /><br /> however, if you want to roam around the site a little, try this instead:<br /><br />http://www.butlercountryknit.com/main1.html <br /><br />........and you may want to treat yourself to a little something from the shop. Marge, the proprietor, is a very nice lady. I asked her for permission to use her tutorial in teaching the long tail cast on (her's is the BEST tutorial out there) and she said yes, certainly. Of course, I give her credit for the tutorial, as I should.<br /><br />While there are many cast on methods, and some patterns will specify a specialty cast on.....long tail never seems to fail.<br /><br />So, starting at the beginning, now that the cast on is out of the way, Lion Brand (once again) provides an excellent tutorial on its website, here it is: <br /><br />http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/82.html?www=1&language= <br /><br />When you get to the tutorial page, to the bottom left hand is a link to download in pdf all of the instructions, without having to load/watch page by page.<br /><br />As with its crochet instructions, Lion Brand, when asked, gave me permission to use its tutorial for my knitting students, so long as its copyright is in place. While the cast on directions are to knit the stitches onto the needles, I still prefer the long tail - overall, Lion Brand's directions are quite good!D. Carlenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06758709800373390723noreply@blogger.com0