Monday, June 4, 2018

Teacup Trivets / Hotpads

H hook, worsted weight COTTON yarn in 2 complimentary or contrasting colors

Note, sometimes you'll work into the chain up at row's end, sometimes not.

Using 2 strands together of Main color 1, chain 16

Row 1:  1hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 2hdc in next ch, 1hdc in each ch across until 2 chains remain; 2hdc in next ch, 1 hdc in last.  [17 hdc total] ch 2, turn

Row 2:  1hdc in first/same stitch as ch 2. 2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in each of next 12 st, 2hdc in next stitch, 1hdc in next st. [18 hdc total] ch 2, turn

Row 3: 1hdc in 1st/same stitch as ch 2, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next 14 st, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next. [20 hdc], ch 2, turn

Row 4:  1hdc in 1st/same st as ch 2, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next 16 st, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next [22 hdc], ch 2, turn

Row 5:  1hdc in 1st/same st as ch 2, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of next 18, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next [24 hdc], ch 2  (piece will not get wider than 24 stitches)

Row 6 - 7:  1 hsc in 1st/same stitch as ch 2, 1hsc in each stitch across to end, [24 hdc] ch 2, turn

Row 8: 1 hdc in first/same stitch as ch 2, 1hdc in each stitch across to end, [24 hdc] chain9 to work handle....

HANDLE:  slip stitch to side of row 4, ch 1, turn. Working into chain, 1 hdc in same st as ch 1.  2hdc in next, 1hdc in next ch.  2 hdc in next ch, 1 hdc in next.   2hdc in next ch, 1 hdc in next.  2hdc in next, 1 in next, 2 in what should be last.  (Any variation of this is fine, so long as your handle curves.)  Top of row 8 is returned to.

Row 9: 1 SINGLE CROCHET into each stitch across [24 sc total], but do NOT ch, do not fasten off.

Color change to Color 2 by pulling up a loop [represents the ch 1 of this row] through the last loop of Color 1;  pull color 1 TIGHTLY and cut tail 2.5 inches long.  Leaving a 2.5 inch tail of Color 2 as well; weave and trim both tails later.

Row 10: 1 SINGLE CROCHET in 1st/same stitch as ch 1, 1sc across to end [24 sc] ch 2, turn

Rows 11 to 12:  Work even, maintaining 24 stitch count, by working 1 hdc in each stitch across, ch 2, turn

Row 13: Work even, maintaining 24 stitch count, by working 1 hdc in each stitch across, ch 1

Row 14:  1 SINGLE CROCHET in each stitch across, maintaining 24 stitch count, fasten off, weave in and trim all tails.

Sunday, May 6, 2018

Shakespeare Scarf - crochet - wavy/ripple/potato chip

After seeing lots of "ripple" and "potato chip" type scarves, I made up my own which looks like an accordion.

Worsted weight and an I hook - LOOSELY chain 180.   Do not crochet too tight; you want long stitches or you will be stuck with needing a 4th round.

Row 1: 1dc in 4th ch from hook.   *2dc in next ch, 1dc in next ch*, repeat from * to * to end.

Row 2: Turn, ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch.   *2dc in next stitch*, repeat from * to * to end.  

Row 3: Turn, ch 3, *2dc in next stitch, 1dc in next*, repeat from * to * to end.  

Fasten off, weave in tails, twist scarf onto itself in a spiral stack. 

To wear, expand lengthwise, fold in half, drape around neck, slip 2 ends through the loop created around the neck when folded in half and it looks like a Shakespearean collar when worn.

This can be made in less than 2 hours, if you're fast 😀.

Tuesday, November 28, 2017

Mini Christmas Stocking - Ornament, Money Holder

Begin with magic circle, chain 1.  

Round 1 - Work 10 Double Crochet (DC) into magic circle; cinch closed.  Join with slip stitch, chain 1 (you will have TEN stitches--the 1st chain (ch) is part of your first DC).

Your project will form a cup.  Work around as follows:

Round 2 - 1 SC in same stitch as join, 1SC in each stitch around, join, ch 1.  

Take a moment now to weave in the tail.  Or,  pull it through and weave it later.

Round 3 - 1 SC in each stitch, join, ch 1.

Now, working in ROWS, form the heal:

ROW 4 - 1 SC in same stitch as join, 1 SC in each of next 4 stitches (totals 5 stitches).  Leave remaining stitches unworked, ch 1, turn.

ROW 5 -1 SC in same stitch as join, 1 SC in each of next 4 stitches, ch 1, turn.

ROW 6 - 1 SC in same stitch as join, 1 SC in each of next 4 stitches, but do not turn.

Fold the heal (last 3 rows) on itself, and join with at slip stitch as shown above.   Note:  Last 3 rows folded together (heal) leave a small hole at the fold (see photo above, bottom right).   It is insignificant overall; leave it be.

Next, working in ROUNDS complete as follows:

ROUND 7 - Chain 1, work 2 SC evenly spaced into the side of the last 3 rows.   

Next, working into the prior round, make 1 SC into each of the next 5 stitches.  

Work 2 SC evenly spaced into the other side of the last 3 rows.  This yields 9 stitches.  Make 1 SC at the join, to total 10 stitches.   

Next, work in 
CONTINUOUS ROUNDS (spiral crochet -- no joining) 
4 rounds to center back. 

Slip stitch, fasten off leaving
long tail to use as a loop to 
hang the stocking.

Contrasting cuff:  Join yarn at center back, chain 2. Work 1 Half Double Crochet in each stitch around, join, fasten off; weave tail.

Pull the main color yarn through the cuff to hang. 

Weave in the toe tail (if you've not done this sooner).

Finished stocking, a little bit of "stuffing" - and it makes a sweet gift, that can be hung on the tree, instead of a money card.

I hope you enjoy it.

Monday, March 6, 2017

stitch holders

Economically, you could use a piece of yarn.  A safety pin.  A paper clip.   I have; i do.

Quite extravagantly, you can purchase (or make) beaded gems.  Use discarded costume earrings.

Somewhere in the middle, you can purchase commercial stitch holders made of plastic.

Meanwhile, how about bobby pins?   I recently went to a big box pharmacy store and for $2 bought 100 bobby pins, in the color of steel.  Plain metal.  Not shaded blonde, brunette, raven, redhead.  Silver/metal.

I mentioned to the cashier that I was hoping to have found them coated in hot pink, or deep purple, or shocking blue...and she replied....paint them with nail polish.  VOILA.  What a great idea.

The beauty part of using bobby pins is that they easily slip on and off a stitch.  Push on, pull off.  No clasp to open, no paper clip to push together/pull apart, no yarn to fiddle with.  Using them is akin to working a precision like spear....boom.  Removing them; moving them - just as easy.

To transform them, I left a few of them on the original cardboard, and separated them.  I painted them and left them for a few days to dry.  I repeated this 3  times with the different polishes as shown.

So, do consider the humble bobby pin for your stitch holding needs.  Here are some of mine, transformed.  After adequate drying, its a good idea to slip them onto and off of folded paper a few times to break them in and allow any excess polish on the edges to transfer to the paper, if at all.  You'd never want to ruin a project with color transfer, so do be careful. I do believe, however, there is likely little chance of harm. Over time, the polish cures as hard as can be.

My favorites are the deep red ones.  The silver pins are unpolished, as purchased.  I put these to work straightaway. :)

Monday, December 26, 2016

Candy Cane Hobby Horse cover cozy

Because sometimes you DO need a hobby horse candy cane cover.  [Pattern at end of post.]

Many years ago, I came across this photo below, but it has disappeared from the internet, never to be found. If it belongs to YOU, please leave a comment below and let me know. Meanwhile, I intended to make these for many years, and never got around to it.  I crochet more than I knit, and I tend to crochet gifts, and i tend to get tied up in all of that. 

This year, I went looking for the pattern, and I found this photo over at
It seemed to me, these were from the same pattern, but Yarnyuck didn't have the pattern; nor did Yarnyuck give these a thumbs up.  What I know about "crochet kitsch" is that one person's trash is another person's treasure, and a few comments were looking for the pattern. I'm in the "yay" column, not the "neigh" column.  I'm punny, yes, I am.

This year, I stole some time from the hectic festivities of Christmas shopping, partying, celebrating and seasonal gift making, and tried my hand at this hobby horse candy cane cover/cozy.  I LOVE IT.

The 3 differences are, no bells under the nose, no chain stitch for the rein - just plain red yarn, and I didn't tie it in a bow around the candy cane.  Totally unneeded.  The cane stays in all by itself by hooking into the nose.  In all its glory, here is my take on the pony, together with a pattern I wrote up below if you, like me, think this is a holiday project to give and/or hang on your tree.  Enjoy.

Pattern:    Worsted weight yarn, any color.  Size G American hook.

Ch 25.

Rows 1- 6 :  sc in each stitch and DO NOT make a turning chain at the end/start of the row.

Row 7:  Fold in half.  Ch 1, sc 5 stitches through both loops of each stitch to close neck.

Working in continuous rounds, do not join.  Use the bottom of the nose as your "marker" for each round.

Round 1:  SC 2, DECREASE, SC completely around to bottom.

Round 2:  SC 8, DECREASE, SC completely around to bottom.

(with the first 2 rounds, you accomplished a decrease on each side of the nose; you'll continue with a few more decreases)

Round 3:  SC to top of nose, DECREASE, SC around to bottom.

Round 4:  SC in each stitch around to bottom.

Round 5:  1 SC, DEC, SC 4, DEC, SC to bottom.

Round 6:  SC 1, DEC, around, fasten off, use tail to sew nose closed.

MANE:   Using 2 strands for each fringe (I used horse color and a contrasting color) close up back of head by pulling fringe through both sides from top of head to bottom of head.  At the bottom of the neck, catch the starting tail in the fringe to secure.  When done fringing, cut it all to an even length.

EARS:  Make 2 - leave a starting and ending tail to affix to head - ch 3, 1SC into 2nd ch from hook, 1hdc into next chain; fasten off. For FIRST ear, using both starting and ending tails, pull tails through both sides of the heat to affix, tie in a knot, weave tails through the fringe on mane, and cut to length of fringe.  For SECOND ear, pull tails through to affix, with one of the tails, FASTEN A LOOP TO THE TOP OF THE HORSE FOR HANGING, then weave the remainder through the mane, and cut to size.

For the rein, I did not chain…I used red yarn, and threaded a needed.  Through the bottom of the nose/neck area, I pulled the yarn through one stitch from side to side, leaving the tails hang down.  Using each tail, I separately threaded a needle and pulled one tail around the nose and under 1 stitch at the top of the nose from right to left; then the other from left to right.  At the top of the nose, I tied the tails together, and ran them down the sides of the nose and under the nose, tacked them under the nose with a stitch, tied a bow, double knotted the bow and cut the unneeded  extra length.  If YOU wanted to use chained yarn for the rein, I suggest a thin sock weight yarn, otherwise I think it would look clunky.  

I was playing with working the ears directly into the row where they are placed, but it was frustrating me, so I did them separately.  If anyone can figure out a better way to do the ears, feel free.

Lastly, I affixed with glue the google eyes; one could easily make stitched eyes instead.

If you like the pattern, please leave a comment below.  HAPPY HOLIDAYS.

Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Never before taken a bathroom selfie...

...but this warranted one.

When I was 10, living in Newark, NJ, I spent a lot of after school and evening time at the Salvation Army "Boys" Club on Providence Street.  It kept me, heck, it kept us all, off the streets and out of trouble.  Part of belonging to "the Boys Club" was going to summer camp, at Camp Tecumseh in Pittstown, NJ.  During the ride to camp, we'd sing on the bus. I loved the bus rides, and really loved going to camp each summer.  And, I was a pretty good singer.  

So when I was 10, I went to camp for 2 sessions - if I'm not mistaken, a session was 8 or 9 days, and I was there for 2x as long.  When I returned, all the girls at the Boys Club were wearing crocheted vests.   I asked them - where'd you get that.  Oh, they all said "I made it myself."  I was intrigued, interested.  I wanted one. Badly.  I wanted to learn to make one for myself.   I asked the ladies in charge if I could learn, and I was told "sorry - we've moved on to other things."   That was that.   I think we learned next how to make paper mache.  Or play bingo.  Or basketball.  Or, we put on a show.  Or....        At 13, we moved, and hanging out at the Boys Club was over for me.

When I was 16ish, I learned how to crochet.  Not because I wanted to make myself a vest - that wasn't a thought in my brain.  I wanted to make a blanket. Blankets. Lots and lots of blankets.  I made granny square blankets for everyone I loved (and some I didn't love) because I was so excited to be doing it.  And, lets face it, back in 1975/1976, acrylic yarn was cheap!  

I continued to crochet - hats, scarves, baby blankets.  Thread doll clothes for my daughter's Barbie dolls (I loved them, and still do - especially knit doll clothes).  Then, comes along the INTERNET - where one can find a treasure trove of patterns, photos, directions, instructions.....for crochet and any craft you can think of.  So one evening I discovered the pattern for this vest. IT BROUGHT BACK SO MANY MEMORIES - and one memory of loss and denial.  I didn't get to make that vest....when I was 10.   But there it was on a GROOVY site.   Now, it can be found via the wayback machine:

In my forties, I decided to make this vest - in all its ugliness.  Worsted weight acrylic yarn, in my favorite color (teal), totally made of chains, totally awful, totally ugly, and, with pompons~!  I love it.  I wear it from time to time (maybe 3 times a year),  It isn't the prettiest item in my wardrobe, but it is one of my favorites.  

So, I call this my "unbreak my 10-year-old heart vest" because it healed a wound caused in my childhood that I didn't even realize I was harboring.  I know, I know - worse things can happen in our childhoods than this - and believe me, they did.  But, THIS is not the place for that...THIS is a place of yarny joy.

I am never so self-indulgent here, and I have not been posting here so much anymore (there are so many better blogs/websites for you to visit), but, I was posting this on Ravelry, and the story behind this vest was just too much to put there.  So, I put it here.

Recently, someone told me a similar story.  She wanted a set of bride/groom "toasting glasses" for her wedding 20 years ago.  "Champagne flutes" in fancy words.  Sounds ritzy titzy, huh?   She was talked out of buying them by her mother (or was it her mother-in-law?) - because they were useless, an indulgence, too expensive, would be used just once and put in a cupboard --- so many "reasons." She said that still, 20 years later, she wishes she had bought those flutes.  I told her about my vest, and how making it in my 40s (and I'm now approaching 60) healed my own little girl heart.  I suggested she treat herself this holiday season, if she needed a REASON, to those champagne flutes - and to enjoy them, and start tradition, and toast her husband every New Year with them.  It will heal her.   I hope she bought them~!

Saturday, October 31, 2015

Book review: Crocheter's Skill-Building Workshop - Author: Dora Ohrenstein

Wow, thumbs up!

This is a great book for anyone interested in crochet.  It is especially informative for beginners.

I like how the book starts with basics and builds, and covers everything I feel a new crocheter absolutely NEEDS to know.  It builds upon skills, stitches, techniques, and explains and illustrates more than 1 way to do things.  For instance, when working in the round, a person may only learn to chain X, join to form a ring, and work into the ring.  However, it can also be accomplished by working into 1 chain, or by forming a magic circle.  Dora Ohrenstein covers and illustrates all three methods.  She also covers spiral rounds, and while she doesn't illustrate tube rounds, she references them and adds several patterns for tubed rounds, including a hat.

Later in the book, she explains and illustrates specialty stitches, textural stitches, lace stitches, and gives some great overall tips.

My only disagreement is that I feel gauge doesn't always matter.  Lets face it, if you're creating a blanket, placemat, potholder, dishcloth -- a smudge larger or a smidgen smaller REALLY isn't going to matter.   If the item is meant to fit, gauge maters,  if the fit isn't an issue, when one uses the suggested yarn weight and hook size, it isn't the end of the world.

Overall, highly recommended to anyone who wants to learn to crochet, or newbies.  Could make a great teaching tool as well.