stitch holders

Economically, you could use a piece of yarn.  A safety pin.  A paper clip.   I have; i do.

Quite extravagantly, you can purchase (or make) beaded gems.  Use discarded costume earrings.

Somewhere in the middle, you can purchase commercial stitch holders made of plastic.

Meanwhile, how about bobby pins?   I recently went to a big box pharmacy store and for $2 bought 100 bobby pins, in the color of steel.  Plain metal.  Not shaded blonde, brunette, raven, redhead.  Silver/metal.

I mentioned to the cashier that I was hoping to have found them coated in hot pink, or deep purple, or shocking blue...and she replied....paint them with nail polish.  VOILA.  What a great idea.

The beauty part of using bobby pins is that they easily slip on and off a stitch.  Push on, pull off.  No clasp to open, no paper clip to push together/pull apart, no yarn to fiddle with.  Using them is akin to working a precision like spear....boom.  Removing them; moving them - just as easy.

To transform them, I left a few of them on the original cardboard, and separated them.  I painted them and left them for a few days to dry.  I repeated this 3  times with the different polishes as shown.

So, do consider the humble bobby pin for your stitch holding needs.  Here are some of mine, transformed.  After adequate drying, its a good idea to slip them onto and off of folded paper a few times to break them in and allow any excess polish on the edges to transfer to the paper, if at all.  You'd never want to ruin a project with color transfer, so do be careful. I do believe, however, there is likely little chance of harm. Over time, the polish cures as hard as can be.

My favorites are the deep red ones.  The silver pins are unpolished, as purchased.  I put these to work straightaway. :)

Joining rounds without "chain 3"

Here is a shout out to Moogley.   I bring Moogly to your attention since I've been telling a few crocheters about this method, and rather than reinvent the tutorial, I direct you to it.  [link at end]

You'll discover a method for starting a round of double crochet without joining with a slip stitch and then chaining 3.  Instead, you begin with a double crochet.  The technique is called the standing double crochet; or is that the stitch name?  I think the name is interchangeable to the stitch/technique.

Basically, its a trade off.  For losing the chain 3, you get a fully fleshed double crochet, but you wind up with a tail at the top of the stitch. That tail must be dealt with as you finish the round, and even if you do not intend to fasten off and use another color, you must, and will have two tails in the same spot - beginning/end - to weave in.  [Note:   both the video and photo tutorial show different colors with each round.]  So, were you to not want to change colors after each round, using this method you would still have to work as if you did - that is, cut your yarn in the last round after the join, and start the next round with the cut yarn.

Is there an advantage to working this way, or is the traditional join, chain 3 best?  That depends on YOU.  Give it a try and see what "look" you prefer.

Here is the link:   http://www.mooglyblog.com/standing-double-crochet-joining/

While Crochet is fun, there are RULES that should not be ignored

Hello darling readers, wherever you come from and however you get here, welcome.

This blog was put together to facilitate the teaching that I do.  I wanted to have tips, tricks, rules, etc. in one place. I wanted to be able to refer my students here...and they could look around and, hopefully, find the answer they sought.  Its plain and could be boring, but there is a good bit of information for the taking.

The more topics I posted, the less I needed to post.  Reason being, this blog isn't about ME, so I try not to make it personal.  However, it is about YOU, what you need and helping you find it.   I don't know everything there is to know, but I know some, and I love to share.  To my students, I'll continue to refer you to this blog and if you bring issues to me, I'll deal with them here.  To those from all over the world that stumble across this little blog, I hope you found what you were seeking, and that you enjoyed reading these posts.  That written, two issues keep arising lately.  They are as dealt with below.

1.  Where to put the hook (into what loops); and

2.  Turning chains, the rules of turning chains, and keeping a correct stitch count.

When you know what the stitches are called, how to execute them, and the abbreviations for them, you should be prepared to read patterns.  Reading patterns is what sets you free and allows you to challenge and push yourself to learn new things and tackle projects that are labelled advanced, intermediate, expert.  

DO NOT BE AFRAID....because any time spent crocheting (or knitting) is never time wasted.  Even if you've got to rip back and begin again, you've learned.  

To the real point of this post, lets talk chains:

Q:  Why the turning chain “rules” are so important.

A:  Because patterns ASSUME you know the rules.  If you don’t know the rules, it could mess up the intended stitch count, and your entire project if this is compounded row after row, or round after round.

In single crochet, we chain 1 and work into the same stitch--and that is the first SC of the row.  To chain 1 and work the first sc into the 2nd stitch is wrong (unless that is what a pattern specifically states to do).  Assuming you will follow the rule tho, lets look to the example below:

For instance:  A pattern of 30 stitches may read:  ch 1, sc in next 5 stitches, hdc in next 20 stitches, sc to end (30 stitches).  If you get to those “last 5”, and only have 4 stitches left, your total yield is 29, and you are a stitch off.  The pattern MEANT the next 5 stitches to include the first stitch, where the chain exists.  Unless otherwise specified, 1 chain will never replace the first single crochet.

In double crochet, when chain 3 is how the row starts, this chain 3 gives you the required height to continue the row and  will almost always take the place of and represent the 1^st double crochet of the row, so, the first stitch must remain UNWORKED, unless otherwise stated, since this ch 3 takes its place.

To work a dc into the same space as the initial ch3 creates an increase.  Unless the pattern states to make the first dc into the same stitch as the ch3 turning chain, you are to work the first dc into the 2nd stitch.  SOME PATTERNS WILL ASSUME YOU KNOW THIS, and not state "ch 3, takes the place of the first dc....."  If you're working in dc, and your stitch count is off, look to this rule.

For instance:  A pattern of 30 stitches may read:  ch3, dc in each stitch to end.  (30).   If you wind up with 31, you have likely placed 1 dc into the same stitch as the initial ch3.

The above illustrations are fine and dandy IF YOU’RE PAYING ATTENTION to your stitch count.  If you are not, however, and keep impounding the mistake(s), your margins will be wrong, your stitch counts will be off, and all subsequent rows will be wrong.

Commercial patterns are supposed to be written in compliance with universal guidelines.  Sometimes, they are not.  To make matters worse, personal patterns (off someone’s blog, website, ravelry, sent in an email, posted somewhere on the internet) are often written in the style of the crocheter and may fail to state what the pattern writer felt was obvious.

Bottom line:  If you question your stitch count, look to the above examples as a good start to correcting what went wrong.

Next, lets get loopy:  Unless a pattern states to work in the front loops or the back loops, work through BOTH loops.  To do differently creates a completely different fabric.

Working in the front loops only creates a more stretchy fabric than intended, with a horizontal line across the work, and could create issues as to gauge and sizing when an item is intended to fit.  

Working in the back loops only creates subtle ridges in the fabric, like a Ruffles potato chip.   It adds texture and thickness to the fabric and also creates issues as to gauge and sizing when an item is intended to fit.

Working through both loops is correct (unless stated otherwise).  This  creates a very sturdy fabric, and looks like long logs stacked on top of each other, and this is the correct/desired effect, unless otherwise stated.   This is very important when creating a project that is intended to be a specified size or gauge, and should not be ignored.

I am not the kind of teacher who makes a person hold their hook a certain way, but if you are learning from scratch, I will request that you thread your hand with yarn they way I do, and grab the yarn, and wrap the yarn (yarn over) in the same fashion that I do -- from the back, underneath the yarn, as it is the most efficient way -- however, if you already crochet, and have some "bad habits", there is only so much I will try to do to break those habits.  If you're comfortable with your hold, your threading and your grabbing, and you're happy with the results of your work, I'm fine with that.  However, the rules expressed above are not my opinion--they are the RIGHT way to crochet, and I will try to steer you in the right direction.   I can't make you do what you don't want to do, but I can enlighten you with the right information, and suggest that you take it into consideration because it will make you a much more successful crocheter, with projects that turn out as they were intended to, and you'll no longer wonder why what you created doesn't look like the picture, or doesn't fit, or turned out with bad margins and is a wonky mess.

This comes from love, it really does.   I wish you luck with your margins, your stitch count and your projects.

Crochet - don't be nervous; its easier than you think~!

Breaking it down, there isn't a lot to it:

Slip Knot
Single Crochet
Half Double Crochet
Double Crochet
Triple Crochet
Double Triple Crochet
Slip Stitch

7 stitches, which when combined, can take the visually simple to eye-popping stunning.
So those are the stitches.

These are the techniques:

Working from side to side.
Working in the round.

~~~~~

Lastly, there are the turning chains:
1 for single crochet, 2 for half double crochet, 3 for double crochet, 4 for triple and 5 for double triple.
Turning chains at the beginning of each row or round in order to create the proper height for the stitch that is being utilized.

In putting that together, you learn how to thread the yarn through your hand, and how to comfortably hold your hook while executing the stitches.

Once you learn how to execute the stitches, and what they are called, you don't have a whole lot to worry about because you are going to follow a written pattern that contains all that information.  A pattern tells you what yarn to use, the proper hook size, how many chains to start with, what stitches to use, what combination of stitches (if combos are used), and where to put them.

These are the basics -- don't be intimidated.

Double Crochet - mind your margins~!

After....
(a) slip knot (where it all begins),
(b) how to chain (the foundation of all things crochet), and
(c) single crochet (and there you have it, you know how to crochet), the most important lesson is double crochet, from side to side, and controlling your margins.

Statistically I can't say that the majority of what we crochet contains double crochet, but in my personal experience and that of people I've taught who choose their own projects, double crochet is a major player, even if often combined with single and triple.

When you're working double crochet in the round, it seems easier to keep track of your stitches without counting and paying attention--you go on "auto pilot" sometimes.   However, when you're working double crochet from side to side, you shouldn't go on autopilot until you have learned to mind your margins.  Pay strict attention to your stitches, especially when you are a beginner.  Its very easy to unintentionally:  increase a stitch on the right hand side, and decrease a stitch on the left hand side.

Since we increase by making 2 stitches into the same stitch or space, and the initial chain 3 that is needed at the beginning of a DC row takes the place of the first DC, its crucial to pay attention to working the 2nd stitch and not placing a DC into the first stitch/same stitch as where the 3 chains reside.      That -- would give you a resulting increase and ... too many stitches.

At the end of the row, NOT working into the top of the 3rd chain on the 3-chain-turning-chain-that-took-the-place-of-the-first-double-crochet-of-the-last-row......WHEW...creates a decrease.  If you happily went along crocheting and not paying attention to these rules, it might appear in the first row where this happened that all is well.  It might look fine after the next row also. However, at some point those stitches start making a visual difference, and then you have to rip back your work and begin again.  Not so big a deal if your stitch count is 20.  If your stitch count is 120 and you've made this mistake 5 rows back....ARGH....its enough to make you mad (that you didn't pay attention).

If it looks fan shaped, you've been adding stitches, most likely by working the first stitch after making 3 chains--which is an unintended increase.  If your project looks like a triangle, a trapozoid, or some other    shrinking margin, you've not been working the turning chain/last stitch of the previous row, or a combination of issues on both ends.

Your first course of action in ensuring "goal post" margins is to utilize the rules of double crochet...that is:  1) 3 chains take the place of the first DC, so make the actual DC in the 2nd stitch;  and
2) work that last stitch which is the turning chain.  
Another method to employ is to count your stitches after every row, as a backup.  
Also, look at your work from time to time - stop, look, see that all is well (or not).

Bargains~!!!

I know this will seem pretty basic, but if you're thinking about crocheting/knitting, you've got to buy supplies and likely you won't know exactly what to purchase, or that you could save $ when you do.  Crochet/knitting - its as expensive as you wish it to be.

When you first go buying supplies, take a look in your Sunday newspaper fliers and/or the internet web pages for your local craft store.  Around here (northern NJ) it would be ACMoore, Michaels, Joanns.  All 3 have web coupons for 40-50% off one item, and/or 20-25% off the total order (sometimes with exceptions) but still, good deals.  ACMoore and Michaels have Sunday fliers in the Star Ledger.

I'm fairly certain that each retailer will cross-honor the others' coupons, but with exceptions. Do use a 50% or 40% off coupon for a set of hooks or knitting needles (of course, you'll want to use it on your most expensive item, whatever it is).

When you are web surfing before you shop, pay attention also to what yarn is on sale.  When you're new to crochet or knitting, you're going to want to start with worsted weight yarn.  Buy what's on sale, because it really won't matter, except to your budget.  Personally, I'd suggest Red Heart Super Saver in a light color (I do not suggest Caron's Simply Soft for learning),  a size I crochet hook, or size 8 knitting needles.  That right there is all you need to begin.

Eventually, you'll want to add supplies to your craft kit, like small sharp scissors, a fabric tape measure, darning needles.  Stitch markers can purchased, or use paper clips, bobby pins, safety pins.  Even a scrap piece of contrast color yarn will come in handy as stitch marker and, in fact, many people when crocheting amigurumi prefer the piece of yarn because rather than removing and replacing it, it can simply be left to run up alongside of the project until its done then .... just pull it out.  Row counters are handy for knitting as are gauge rulers.

It doesn't hurt to have extra hooks/needles handy. Oftentimes we work on several projects at a time. It doesn't so much matter to crochet--you'd pull up  a long loop to not lose your place. However, with knitting, necessarily your needles will be left behind with the project holding all the stitches in place.  

Don't believe me?  Think you'll never have more than one project going at a time? Trust me, you will.

Look at Ebay for oddlots of hooks, needles and accessories. Before you bid....know that you're getting a deal.  Know ahead of time what that lot would cost you if purchased new.   You'd wind up kicking yourself if you paid too much for used items...but speaking from experience, I've won some lovely craft lots on Ebay.

Also, if you are the garage sale type, you can sometimes find hooks/needles/etc.....but beware of second hand yarn.  If it looks old, it is.  If it looks raggedy, it is.  If you have it in you to "sniff" garage sale yarn, take a small wiff.  If it smells musty or smoky, its better to leave it behind.  You could purchase it and wash it intact (stuffed into the legs of old pantyhose), but I've heard horror stories about garage sale yarn.  Sometimes, mice had set up house in it and you won't know until you got to the middle and found some chewed ends and droppings.  Ewwwwwwwwwwww.   Beware of garage sale yarn.  Also, if someone gives you yarn, examine it carefully and use your common sense whether or not its usable or should be trashed.

When you've learned how to crochet or knit, and you decide that you want to continue doing either (or both), you have plenty of time to move on to fancier more expensive yarns and treat yourself to pricey implements, gadgets and accessories, if you want to.

It doesn't have to be expensive when you start -- no one is happy with a first project cashmere potholder~!

Learning to knit - 2 sites (and an excellent cast on)

CASTING ON is the most important step in your project. I don't know why some people continue to teach the simple cast on, where the pointer finger is used. This cast on is sloppy, and its main problem (and if you've used it, you know) is the useless string that occurs between stitches as you knit--the more stitches you have, the longer, more annoying, and in the way this string becomes. The reason it is called "THE FINGER" cast on isn't lost on me. Ha. The finger cast on is particularly awful if you are working in the round on circulars or dpns. Ok...point made.

TADA - LONG TAIL CAST ON to the rescue. I tell my students that the long tail cast on - sometimes referred to as the sling shot cast on - might be the most difficult thing they ever learn in knitting. It isn't that its difficult per se, it is just a little bit awkward at first.
This link will take you directly to the pdf download:

www.butlercountryknit.com/longtail.pdf

however, if you want to roam around the site a little, try this instead:

http://www.butlercountryknit.com/main1.html

........and you may want to treat yourself to a little something from the shop. Marge, the proprietor, is a very nice lady. I asked her for permission to use her tutorial in teaching the long tail cast on (her's is the BEST tutorial out there) and she said yes, certainly. Of course, I give her credit for the tutorial, as I should.

While there are many cast on methods, and some patterns will specify a specialty cast on.....long tail never seems to fail.

So, starting at the beginning, now that the cast on is out of the way, Lion Brand (once again) provides an excellent tutorial on its website, here it is:

http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/82.html?www=1&language=

When you get to the tutorial page, to the bottom left hand is a link to download in pdf all of the instructions, without having to load/watch page by page.

As with its crochet instructions, Lion Brand, when asked, gave me permission to use its tutorial for my knitting students, so long as its copyright is in place. While the cast on directions are to knit the stitches onto the needles, I still prefer the long tail - overall, Lion Brand's directions are quite good!

How to crochet - 2 sites providing good tutorials/directions

Lion Brand yarn's website provides a comprehensive and complete tutorial and here is the link to cut/paste into your browser:
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/106.html?www=1&language=

Once on the page, towards the bottom center where it reads "Learn to Crochet: Before you Start" there is a link below to the left where one can download ALL of the directions (rather than view online page after page). This is what I suggest.

I contacted Lion Brand asking permission to reprint and utilize its instructions for teaching, and the response was "ABSOLUTELY, yes" - so long as I left the Lion Brand copyright on the papers -- which is what I do. Another good thing about its site is the variety of patterns for all categories and experience levels - AND - Lion Brand doesn't mind if you plan to sell what you make using their patterns. Over all, good website with lots of useful stuff.

Another good learning site is: http://www.nexstitch.com/a_articles.html This takes you to the instructions base, which are pdf downloads. There, one can even find instructions for left handed crocheters.

Happy learning to you all.

"invisible" knit increase

Well, this being my first blog, I didn't know how hard it would be to get back more often. I feel remiss in my endeavors to bring information to my students that is all in one place. What isn't a surprise, is all of the good and useful information already out there on the net. Two such sites are posted below.

Knit patterns often state which increase to use; and there are several. However, when using a pattern in which the method isn't stated, I have read that most will use make 1 (m1). It isn't because this gives the best result, however, but because the knitter hasn't been exposed to more appropriate methods for the desired result with a particular pattern. That is, when you're new, you tend not to get extensive information that comes with more exposure to different, more varied and/or difficult patterns that necessarily add to your "bag of knitting tricks." Frankly, the pattern writer is equally at fault by assuming the "correct" method for the job will just be known to the knitter. The second choice is knit front/back in the same stitch. I like this, but it leaves such evidence of its usage.

Since increases lean left or right, patterns should be written with the preferred method for each increase and often pair left lean and right lean for a better visual effect. The wrong increase can make your work look sloppy, not like "the picture on with pattern" and can leave you disappointed without even knowing why. Snore, yawn, I'm boring you, right? Okay. For a good list generally, see: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases and choose accordingly.

NOW LETS GET TO THAT "INVISIBLE" INCREASE. I was recently attempting to make a project that was all about the increase...and the increases I made were so blatant and obvious that I was disappointed. Wanting the increases to be as invisible as possible, searching the net, I found this  tutorial: http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/very-nearly-invisible-increase.html

I must admit, it is a perfectly benign smooth increase. It doesn't seem to lean either left or right, and in usage it looks, to me, like a fork in the road, as if the stitches magically multiplied with little tell-tale sign at all. I've knitted for years now and never saw this increase anywhere.  While other increase methods are equally purposeful, this is great when you want it to be as inconspicuous as possible. I don't think I'd use it for raglan shaping--there I like a little "seam" and demarcation to show what happened at the shoulders.