Learning to knit - 2 sites (and an excellent cast on)

CASTING ON is the most important step in your project. I don't know why some people continue to teach the simple cast on, where the pointer finger is used. This cast on is sloppy, and its main problem (and if you've used it, you know) is the useless string that occurs between stitches as you knit--the more stitches you have, the longer, more annoying, and in the way this string becomes. The reason it is called "THE FINGER" cast on isn't lost on me. Ha. The finger cast on is particularly awful if you are working in the round on circulars or dpns. Ok...point made.

TADA - LONG TAIL CAST ON to the rescue. I tell my students that the long tail cast on - sometimes referred to as the sling shot cast on - might be the most difficult thing they ever learn in knitting. It isn't that its difficult per se, it is just a little bit awkward at first.
This link will take you directly to the pdf download:

www.butlercountryknit.com/longtail.pdf

however, if you want to roam around the site a little, try this instead:

http://www.butlercountryknit.com/main1.html

........and you may want to treat yourself to a little something from the shop. Marge, the proprietor, is a very nice lady. I asked her for permission to use her tutorial in teaching the long tail cast on (her's is the BEST tutorial out there) and she said yes, certainly. Of course, I give her credit for the tutorial, as I should.

While there are many cast on methods, and some patterns will specify a specialty cast on.....long tail never seems to fail.

So, starting at the beginning, now that the cast on is out of the way, Lion Brand (once again) provides an excellent tutorial on its website, here it is:

http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/82.html?www=1&language=

When you get to the tutorial page, to the bottom left hand is a link to download in pdf all of the instructions, without having to load/watch page by page.

As with its crochet instructions, Lion Brand, when asked, gave me permission to use its tutorial for my knitting students, so long as its copyright is in place. While the cast on directions are to knit the stitches onto the needles, I still prefer the long tail - overall, Lion Brand's directions are quite good!

"invisible" knit increase

Well, this being my first blog, I didn't know how hard it would be to get back more often. I feel remiss in my endeavors to bring information to my students that is all in one place. What isn't a surprise, is all of the good and useful information already out there on the net. Two such sites are posted below.

Knit patterns often state which increase to use; and there are several. However, when using a pattern in which the method isn't stated, I have read that most will use make 1 (m1). It isn't because this gives the best result, however, but because the knitter hasn't been exposed to more appropriate methods for the desired result with a particular pattern. That is, when you're new, you tend not to get extensive information that comes with more exposure to different, more varied and/or difficult patterns that necessarily add to your "bag of knitting tricks." Frankly, the pattern writer is equally at fault by assuming the "correct" method for the job will just be known to the knitter. The second choice is knit front/back in the same stitch. I like this, but it leaves such evidence of its usage.

Since increases lean left or right, patterns should be written with the preferred method for each increase and often pair left lean and right lean for a better visual effect. The wrong increase can make your work look sloppy, not like "the picture on with pattern" and can leave you disappointed without even knowing why. Snore, yawn, I'm boring you, right? Okay. For a good list generally, see: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases and choose accordingly.

NOW LETS GET TO THAT "INVISIBLE" INCREASE. I was recently attempting to make a project that was all about the increase...and the increases I made were so blatant and obvious that I was disappointed. Wanting the increases to be as invisible as possible, searching the net, I found this  tutorial: http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/very-nearly-invisible-increase.html

I must admit, it is a perfectly benign smooth increase. It doesn't seem to lean either left or right, and in usage it looks, to me, like a fork in the road, as if the stitches magically multiplied with little tell-tale sign at all. I've knitted for years now and never saw this increase anywhere.  While other increase methods are equally purposeful, this is great when you want it to be as inconspicuous as possible. I don't think I'd use it for raglan shaping--there I like a little "seam" and demarcation to show what happened at the shoulders.

Knitted Keyhole Scarf - Lion Brand Free Pattern

Hello folks. Here is a link to a fabulous scarf...although I would go so far as to call it a "scarflette" which has become so popular in the past 2 years.

Below is a photo of the scarf without the pompons. Notice the pointy part at the bottom that slips through the keyhole.  Notice how its wrapped around something other than a neck~!   I had my lovely daughter model it for me, and I snapped a photo with her phone, but upon reviewing it she thought I could have snapped a better one. So, this will have to do for now...haha.

Also below is a link to the pattern.  Enjoy.

http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/90171AD.html?noImages=

So what is a scarflette? It is wrapped around the neck like a traditional scarf, but fastened AT the neck by buttons, loops, slits or keyholes.  As such, it works up quicker than long scarf wrapped around the neck and thrown over the shoulder. Any search engine looking for images of scarflettes will bring you a lot of hits.

Returning to the pattern at hand, this is a freebie at www.lionbrand.com called "Mandy's Delight Scarf" and it is quite the visual delight, isn't it? It begins at the slender end, increasing stitches every other row for a number of rows until 34 stitches have been achieved. Thereafter, it is worked even for 25 inches in garter stitch, then 4 inches in k2, p2 ribbing. The ribbed portion is folded over itself and the cast off end is sewn to the beginning of the ribbing. The tapered end is slipped through the ribbed tube that forms the other end. Simple as that. AND DONCHA LOVE THOSE POMPOMS~!?! Somehow on this scarf, the pompoms look sophisticated. I love the choice of colors used in the prototype. Note, tho, you don't have to add the pompoms and you could substitute a different embellishment, such as buttons or a large silk ribbon bow, etc.

So I was eager to dive in, using yarn I had on hand. Now, I'm not a big fan of Caron's Simply Soft, and I had a single skein in silverish grey for the longest time. CSS has a tendency to split and much like Puff's tissues for sore noses, I can feel the "soft" that was put into it, whatever it is. It also drapes, but this can sometimes cause the stitches to stretch. HOWEVER, for this pattern, it was a perfect substitution for the yarn referenced. Sorry Lion Brand Yarn; I love your products but I didn't have the required yarn on hand (I have put it on my "to buy" list.) Using CSS and the recommended needles size turned this into a successful project. Everyone I've shown it too (unless they are needlessly flattering me) has liked it. For a garter and ribbed item, the sophisticated finished product belies the simplicity of the pattern. I think it is gorgeous, and oh so simple to complete. My only disclaimer would be if you do substitute yarn like I did, be sure to use something soft....the old value added standby, Red Heart Super Saver, won't work...it would be way too stiff.

I would go as far to state that, I think it is a perfect beginner proect when teaching someone how to knit. Any beginner would be awesomely proud to have completed this!

IMPORTANT:   The first stitch of every row is always slipped. Generally, I would have crossed the yarn from front to back in between the slipped stitch and the second stitch...but not so with this pattern. Leave the yarn in the front, slip the stitch, and knit the next one as if the lead yarn were positioned in the back to begin with...by so doing, you're creating a very neat wrapped edge.

So there you have it.   Happy knitting.

Finished: Barbie's top down "Barbara Walker" dress

<-------- There she is. The dress is retro, figure-fitting, and my personal "tip of the hat" to doll knitting history. I'm feeling lucky to have found the pattern at all, 20 years after the magazine was printed~!

(Allow me to make a small disclaimer -- I haven't added the snaps yet; the dress was pinned to photograph quickly).

I previously posted about Barbara Walker's encouragement to take personal license with her pattern by design or by whim. However, I really wanted to use what I thought were the most pertinent, basic, and necessary elements of the pattern, and in doing so, I HAD TO MAKE CHOICES...which I guess translates into changes. Oh, contrary me. So here they are:

1. I eliminated the 2 tone suggestion (accent yarn at neck, sleeve cuffs and waist), opting for pink.

2. I kept short sleeves, as patterned, without designing longer and\or fuller sleeves as further on suggested.

3. I utilized the fabric stitch waist, rather than opting for a looser, less defined fit. (Interesting choice, that fabric stitch--very very tight for a seriously cinched waist). Thus, it looks like lots of dashes = = = = = = across the waist.

4. I slim-fit the skirt, rather than the patterned A-line, by not increasing stitches "evenly spaced" every few rows after the initial increase--I prefer a slim fit for Barbie (when given an option).

5. I eliminated a small bit of short row shaping at the bust above the darts--it looked ridiculous to me, and is made redundant by the bust line dart shaping.

6. Since the neckline and sleeve hems are garter stitch, it made sense to "garter" the hemline.

In sum, to me, the pattern is, at once, both intricate and basic. The darting is perfectly placed; the fit is fabulous. Back plackets (garter stitch) create a substantial strip for snaps, and the raglan sleeve "seams" paired with the back decreases form a "diamond" across the back which is lovely, but didn't photograph well.

Ms. Walker dealt with the side margins by slipping the last stitch in each purl row, yarn forward, which when knitted in the next row creates a neat, almost decorative, finished edge <---a tip I'd forgotten, but will be sure to use again.

While my representation is basic and plain, the raglan shaping and darting--and the short rows if kept--challenge your skills. I like it and view it as a good representation of an old-timey day dress...sorta Barbie meets Donna Reed.

Virtually every knitter, eventually, has the Barbara Walker books recommended as a "must read" - and for good reason. Her books may be found at your local library, and any or all of them are a great addition to your own knitting book shelf. NOTE: They may be too much to absorb when you are a new knitter, but as you progress in the craft, and understand and embrace various techniques, you'll want to revisit "the Treasuries." So, thanks, Ms. Walker.

Barbara Walker top down Barbie dress - progress photo

Hi all. Here is "the dress," now approaching waist shaping. Thus far, worked on 2 dpns through the raglan double increase, then 3 dpns as each sleeve was worked, returning now to 2 dpns as I reach the waist.

Sleeves are worked separately by knitting to a point, attaching fresh yarn, knitting two rows and casting off in knit. Thereafter, a few stitches with a sewing needle seam the sleeves and 3 stitches are picked up at the underarm (with the original yarn, not from the bit of fresh yarn) and left unworked ...knitting across the front to the next sleeve and repeating. The picked up stitches are not worked until the purl row. Next up, subtle dart shaping for the bustline, and there it is, ready for waist shaping.

The waist shaping is achieved with a tighter stitch. I'll be posting about that after the fact. I have to admit, even tho I'm on the 3rd attempt at this little pink dress, I'm really having a lot of fun making it. I've missed knitting~!

The view is of the front. While I professed that I intended to stick to the pattern as much as possible, I had to eliminate the short row shaping above the bust darts. Once the sleeves are sewn, there is no ripping back past them. In my first attempt, I misread the pattern. I did save the piece, and I learned from it. In the second attempt, I seriously disliked the short row shaping. If I can muster up a visual for you, it looked like Madonna's pointy cones, and also it was as if the bust area had "a face" .... clearly, I could see 2 eyes at the boobies and a nose under and between them. Considering the darts for bust shaping below, the short rows are redundant and unnecessary.

Dress number 3...so far, I love ya.

Later folks. Donna

Knitting for Fashion Dolls - A Beginner's Primer

When I was a little girl, I used to cut off the ankle part of my old socks and slip them onto my Barbie doll. I think that was a universal thing that ladies of my generation did, and oh, what a happy time it was - especially if the sock contained some lace at the top. Sometimes, I'd cut out little armholes too and have more than a "tube" dress. What fun it was "making" simple doll clothes that way.

Fast forward: when my daughter played with her dolls, I took up crocheting outfits for her Barbies. The patterns you can find are exquisite~! Turning my attention to re-learning how to knit, and recalling those happy doll memories of my childhood, I knew that "sock type" tube garments could provide an entire doll wardrobe. I took measurements, made notes and started simple. After a few basic garments, I taught myself different shaping techniques, cabling, raglan sleeve shaping, etc., thereby increasing and expanding my knitting knowledge overall, even tho the results were in "doll size" scale. All of these new skills carried over into my "regular size" knitting--a win-win situation.

This post provides a jumping-off point into doll knitting and is meant to assist beginners (expert knitters may find some value here as well). This post covers basic tube garments, and incorporates suggestions to "transform" the basics. (Part 2, coming soon, will cover advanced techniques.) In addition to providing a simple mix & match fashion doll wardrobe, it introduces one to knitting in small scale. So, if you still appreciate your childhood dolls... are a doll collector... have a daughter or granddaughter who loves her dollies--and you haven't yet tried crafting yarn garments for those dollies--I promise you it is very gratifying since the items work up quickly. Also, there is no need to be intimidated about it - you've already got the knitting skills--we are merely shrinking the tools; and while "going smaller" may feel awkward at first, it certainly becomes more comfortable with practice.

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Yarn weights used are baby, fingering, sock, thread and occasionally, mohair, sport, or when bulkiness is desired a light worsted. Needles range from U.S. size 0000 to 3. Notions can include beads; beads as buttons; small snaps, hook & eye (waist/back); in-scale buttons; ribbons (belting, shoulder straps, lacing); fine elastic (waistbands); small buttons as brooches, sequins, gems, lace, appliqués, embroidery and novelty yarn such as eyelash for a funky collar or hemline.

The 11 ½ inch fashion doll (like Mattel's BarbieTM)* has these measurements: Bust 6" Waist 3.75" Hip 5" Shoulder to Shoulder 2.5" *However, these techniques/patterns can translate to any doll once you have its measurements.

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Knitting for Fashion Dolls, the Basics Primer

Skills required: casting on/off, knit, purl

Suggested supplies for the patterns below: U.S. needles size 2, straight or 2 dpns for flat knitting (can use size 3 also) and at least 2 skeins (different colors) sock yarn (universal weight no. 2)

PROJECTS (the BASICS): "Starter" doll garments, tube-like items, stretch for good fit, are easily constructed, work up quickly and provide a foundation to build on. They can be embellished and adorned, modified with increases, decreases and specialty stitches to create varied looks (see Transform the Basics below). Doll garments are either worked flat on straight needles and seamed up the back, or seamlessly in rounds on 4 dpns**. They should be slipped onto the doll feet up, cast on stitches first, as this is more elastic than the cast off, allowing them to slip over the widest parts, yet fit appropriately elsewhere. The cast off, even if preceded by ribbing, is generally done in knitting or purling for a tighter fit at waist, thighs or around legs.

**A set of dpns is a useful addition to your knitting supplies in any event. Also note, knitting in the round may change the gauge causing the item to be a smidge tighter.

BASIC ITEMS TO BE WORKED UP WITH SOCK YARN AND NO. 2 NEEDLES. Basic patterns are written to be worked flat, back and forth - to work in the round on dpns, deduct 2 stitches from the cast on.

TOP: Cast on 32 stitches. Rows 1 - 2 k/1 p/1 ribbing. Rows 3 - 18 stockinette. Rows 19 - 20, k1, p1. Cast off in knitting; leave a 5 inch tail. Use tail to sew back seam with backstitching or whip stitching.

DRESS: Snug at bust/hips, relaxed at waist--follow directions for Top and work in stockinette for 6 ½ inches (or more depending on length you desire). Rib (or not) the last 2 rows. Cast off in knitting; leave a 7 inch tail; use tail to sew back seam.

SKIRT: Cast on 24 stitches. "Elasticize" waist with 4 rows of k1/p1 ribbing. Work in stockinette thereafter for at least 3 ½ inches (longer if you prefer). Cast off in knit; leave 5 inch tail to use for seaming up back. Note: skirt will be form fitting.

OH SO SHORTY-SHORTS: Cast on 30 stitches; k1/p1 ribbing for 4 rows. Work in stockinette for 1 3/4 inches. Cast off in knitting; use 6 inch tail to sew rear seam; carry tail through to take up a few stitches at the crotch. Thread fine elastic or a ribbon through waist for a cinch-tie.

PANTS: 38 stitches; k/1 p/1 ribbing for 4 rows. Stockinette to crotch (1.75 inches), then, work to center (19th stitch), drop yarn, join separate yarn bobbin and work to end. Continue to work yarn from skein and bobbin simultaneously on same needles with 19 stitches each - these are the legs of the pants and by working each at the same time on the same needles with separate yarn bobbins, there is no question that they are exactly equal. This is a great tip! Cast off at desired length leaving long tail for seaming. FINISHING: With stockinette side facing you, fold piece over both left-hand and right-hand sides so inside leg seams are in the middle and pants are inside out. Starting at the bottom of one leg, sew inside seam to the crotch and down the other leg in a continuous "U". Next, sew rear seam. Thread elastic or ribbon as a draw-string through waist. NOTE: While this is the easiest pattern, the fit isn't divine. More complex patterns are available for purchase or free on the internet that will produce a fabulous looking/fitting pair of pants.

SIMPLE WINTER HAT I: Barbie's hair volume varies from doll to doll. Generally, cast on 25 stitches unless it is very full, then cast on 30 instead. k1/p1 ribbing for 5 rows, then stockinette for at least 1 1/2 inches. Do not cast off. Cut a 6 inch tail, thread tail through darning needle and thread darning needle through stitches on the knitting needle, transferring them to the tail. Cinch tightly, close top of hat, secure with a sewn stitch. Continue seaming with remainder of tail. Add puff or braid to the top. Hats are as versatile as your imagination. Thumb-less "Mittens" can be made the same way using less stitches, of course. Pair hats with long narrow "rectangle" scarves!

SIMPLE WINTER HAT II: Cast on 14 stitches, leaving a 6 inch tail. Work flat back and forth in ribbing, stockinette or garter stitch until a 3 1/2 inch rectangle is created. Cast off leaving a 6 inch tail on the opposite side of the cast on tail. Use each tail threaded through a darning needle, and sew up the seam on each side. Add a pompon or tassle to the points on each side of the top of the hat

SHRUG: This easy-to-create piece is an effective and impressive looking "sleeved" garment. Make a rectangle at least 5 inches long X 2 1/2 inches wide in stockinette or garter stitch. Fold together lengthwise, whipstitch each side from end towards center about 1.5 inches, leaving the center unstitched, to create "arms".

"MINK" STOLE: With a fuzzy acrylic/mohair blend (worsted weight is good here) make a rectangle. It should be at least 2 inches wide and long enough for the ends to meet each other when wrapped around the doll's shoulders. Finish on a row where the cast off tail is not on the same side as the cast on tail, ensuring you have a tail on both right and left sides of the rectangle. Using the tails on each side, run a darning needle through the tails, weave in and out through each of the ends, and cinch tightly, weave in the tail (cut excess). Fasten with snap or hook & eye (you may also simply sew it shut and slip it over her head). Can be adorned with a specialty button that looks like jewelry.

SHAWL/EVENING WRAP: Knit a rectangle at least 6 inches long (or longer) by 1 to 1 ½ inches wide in garter, garter/stockinette combo, or a lace stitch. Perfect when paired with a tube dress.

PURSES: work a rectangle or square in garter stitch, fold, sew up sides and fold top flap over; fasten with a button; add ribbon or a stitch marker, etc. as a handle. Use straw or nylon cord to make a larger beach bag. Make 2 squares, sew together, add straps as a backpack. Embellish with notions.

TRANSFORMING THE BASICS:

A. SIMPLE WAIST SHAPING FOR THE BASIC TUBE DRESS:

At waistline, you can do any of the following: 1) Switch needles to two sizes smaller at the waist for 5 rows, return to size begun with, work to hemline. 2) Decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced, work 4 rows even, increase 4 stitches evenly spaced, work even to hemline. 3) Switch to two size smaller needles, work in k1/p1 ribbing 4 rows, return to original needles and work in stockinette to hemline. 4) Make a series of yarnovers for one row at the waist to thread a ribbon, sash or belt through. 5) For a full-skirted dress, work basic tube to waist, increase every stitch around for 1 row, then continue in stockinette to hemline.

B. NOT-SO-BASIC: 1) Introduce two or more colors for all-over striping. 2) Variegated or self-striping sock yarn produces overall spectacular color. 3) For texture, work entirely in k1, p1 ribbing. 4) Similarly, work entirely in garter stitch. 5) For a fancier dress, work basic tube to the waist, then work in a lace pattern to the hemline, or work a series of yarnovers. 6) Use an allover pattern from top to bottom (like mini mock cable ribbing). 7) Plan a center cable down the front as a striking focal point. 8) Work garter stitch from side to side in a wide rectangle shape, rotate it and seam it up the back for vertical lines. 9) Use garter stitches at the bottom, top, or both for fun texture. 10) Fashion shoulder straps from ribbon. 11) Crochet straps at the shoulders. 12) Sash it at the waist with ribbon or a crochet belt. 13) Sew lace to the hem or bustline. 14) Use novelty yarn at hem or bustline. 15) Do not sew up the waist of skirts or pants and instead close with a snap. 16) Make a "wrap" skirt with a rectangle. 17) Sew 2 squares together for a shirt, skirt or dress. 18) Do decorate your doll garments and have fun!

NOTE: TO COMPLIMENT THE ABOVE AND BUILD SKILLS, PART 2 will include some, if not all, of the following techniques: raglan sleeve shaping (sweater), defined waist shaping (skirts and pants), picking up stitches (adding sleeves), yarn over buttonholes (sweater), and working with a set of DPNs (cocktail dress).

MANY PATTERNS CAN BE FOUND FOR FREE ON THE INTERNET, AND THERE ARE LOVELY VINTAGE PATTERNS FOR SALE ON SITES SUCH AS EBAY.

DPNs: Adapting a flat item to DPNS, Part 2 of 2

PART 2 - ADAPTING A FLAT KNITTED ITEM TO DPNS

Supplies: Four U.S. size 8, 9 or 10 dpns, worsted weight yarn any color, darning needle

PROJECT: Let's adapt a fairly simple hat knitted flat on 2 straight needles (pattern below) to knitting in the round on dpns. As the straight knitted hat has to be seamed up the back, 70 stitches are cast on, with 2 stitches allowing for the sewn seam. Since we will not be seaming the item, we need to eliminate 2 stitches. Therefore, instead of casting on 70 stitches, we'll cast on 68 either all onto one dpn and transfer them to 3 dpns evenly (approx. 22 stitches per dpn), or spread evenly over 3 dpns with a direct cast on. If you are uncomfortable with the initial join, cast on 69 and stitch the first 2 together as directed above in No. 3.

Because this hat is stretchy, worked in 3K, 1P ribbing, whether or not you want it tighter or looser on your head will determine which size needles you use. Since this is a very stretchy pattern, a little bit tighter or looser gauge isn't going to drastically change the fit.

Round 1: k3, p1
Subsequent rounds: repeat round 1
At 7 inches, begin decreasing as follows:
Round 1: k2 together, around
Round 2: k2together, around
Round 3: cut yarn leaving a 5 inch tail. Thread a darning needle and slip it through all stitches on the dpns, pull the yarn tight and make 2 stitches to keep the top of the hat shut. Add a pompon to the top if desired.

Note the differences between knitting the project as above on dpns, and as below on straight needles.
Consider what other projects that are written for straight needles could be adapted to knitting on dpns

***RIBBED HAT WORKED ON 2 STRAIGHT NEEDLES

STRETCHY RIBBED CAP (for average-sized adult head)
Supplies: (less than) 1 skein worsted weight acrylic yarn, your brand/color choice
Needles: U.S. size 8, 9 or 10
Alternately, may be worked on circular needles if desired
Gauge: since this hat is very stretchy, any of the 3 sized needles will work and not change the overall fit too dramatically.

Cast on 70 stitches
Row 1: K3, P1, repeat across, ending in K2.
Row 2: P2, *k1, P3*, repeat across from *to*.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 and work as established in rib pattern until piece measures 7 inches long. At 7 inches, decrease as follows:
Row 1: k2tog across. Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3-5: Repeat rows 1 & 2, ending in a decrease row. DO NOT CAST OFF.

Leaving a 12 inch tail, cut yarn. Thread the tail through a darning needle. Slip the darning needle through the stitches on the knitting needle as you remove the knitting needle. Pull the tail tightly and secure the tightened opening with a whipstitch. Using the remaining length of tail, continue down the back of the hat and whipstitch the seams together until finished. Weave the tail in one direction, then the other to secure. Cut tail.
Notes: Hat may be made with scraps in various colors. The ribbing pattern can be altered as you wish. It can be embellished with a tassel or pompon at the top, or knitted flowers/shapes or buttons may be sewn on. Knitting it 9 to 10 inches long instead of 7 before decreasing, creates a brimmed edge that can be turned up.

DPNs; Double Pointed Needles - Lesson: Knitting in the Round, Part 1 of 2

Knitting in the round with Double Pointed Needles (dpns) PART 1 of 2

Supplies: 4 dpns, U.S. size 8, 9 or 10, worsted weight yarn
Prior knowledge necessary: casting on/off, knitting, purling

Dpns are just that--knitting needles with a point at each end as opposed to needles with a point at one end and a stopper at the other. DPNs are sold in sets of 4 or 5.

The stitches are evenly spread across 3 dpns, while the 4th dpn is used to work each stitch around (or 4 dpns while using the 5th to work the stitches).

Why dpns? Rather than knitting an item flat and sewing it up:
1) the project is seamless, knitted in rounds, not rows; no seaming\sewing needed
2) for stockinette stitch, purling is eliminated since item is not turned at each row
3) tension is more even since item is not turned
4) works up quicker since item is not turned
5) works great on tube shaped items, such as hats, gloves, socks, caddies, stuffed toys, doll
clothing, leg warmers, gauntlets
6) many patterns can be adapted to working with dpns, and by doing so, eliminating the
need to sew seams and, thus, also saving time

Potential issues, and fixes, for working with dpns:

1) Use the longtail cast on (will be taught if needed). This keeps the stitches tightly together. While the simpler finger wrap is an easy cast on, it creates a distracting long strand between each stitch, which we want to avoid.

2) Juggling several needles at a time is awkward initially. As with all knitting, it becomes comfortable with practice.

3) Gauge may be different (slightly smaller) since it is worked in one direction. Adjust needle size to achieve proper gauge for the project.

4) Stitches slipping off the ends of the dpns. Keep the stitches spread evenly between all dpns. When putting the work down, either use stoppers or push the stitches to the center of each dpn.

5) BIG TIME TIP: The join at the first 2 stitches can gap. To eliminate this at the initial join, cast on 1 extra stitch and slip the first 2 joining stitches one over the other. Alternatively, cast on 1 extra stitch and slip the first and last stitch together onto one needle, then knit them together. Either method creates one decrease, leaving the correct number of cast on stitches intact, and no gap.

6) Strands, called ladders, or gaps between stitches can occur at stitches where the dpns meet. Pull tightly at the joins between dpns--more snuggly than you do for other stitches. You may also wish to adjust the stitches every so often.for example, with 30 stitches on 3 needles, 10/10/10, instead work 11 stitches onto a needle, then 11 onto the next, etc. Thereafter, work 9, then, 9 more, etc. This moves the joins around, making them less noticeable. Again, practice will remedy most initial problems encountered.

7) Markers are useful for knitting in the round to mark the end/beginning of each round.

For practice, cast on 30 stitches, 10 per needle, and begin. It may be easier to cast all 30 stitches onto 1 dpn, then transfer 10 to a 2nd and 10 to a 3rd. Note: cast on 1 extra and work 2 stitches together at the initial join.

The 4th dpn is called the free needle.

Be careful not to twist your stitches, or else your project will be a mobius and not a tube.

The dpns are now naturally forming a triangle. Using the free needle, knit the stitches on the first needle as you normally would and when you knit the last stitch, pull your yarn tightly to prevent gaps.

Now, you have a free needle again. Knit the next 10 stitches as previously, pulling tightly with the last stitch. Again, you have a free needle--knit the last 10 stitches.

You have just completed one round. You could place a marker here if needed for your project.

Since there is no turning the work with dpns, to create stockinette stitch we simply continue knitting, and have eliminated the need to purl. This doesn't mean that we'll never purl with dpns; we would if a pattern required it. Since this doesn't, let's continue knitting around and around until our tube measures an inch or two.

Cast off in knitting, leaving a tail for whip stitching the end closed (if desired).


PART 2 - ADAPTING A FLAT KNITTED ITEM TO DPNS
Supplies: Four U.S. size 8, 9 or 10 dpns, worsted weight yarn any color, darning needle

PROJECT: Let's adapt a hat knitted flat on 2 straight needles (pattern below) to knitting in the round on dpns. As the straight knitted hat has to be seamed up the back, 70 stitches are cast on, with 2 stitches allowing for the sewn seam. Since we will not be seaming the item, we need to eliminate 2 stitches. Therefore, instead of casting on 70 stitches, we'll cast on 68 either all onto one dpn and transfer them to 3 dpns evenly (approx. 22 stitches per dpn), or spread evenly over 3 dpns with a direct cast on. If you are uncomfortable with the initial join, cast on 69 and stitch the first 2 together as directed above in No. 3.

Because this hat is stretchy, worked in 3K, 1P ribbing, whether or not you want it tighter or looser on your head will determine which size needles you use. Since this is a very stretchy pattern, a little bit tighter or looser gauge isn't going to drastically change the fit.

Round 1: k3, p1
Subsequent rounds: repeat round 1
At 7 inches, begin decreasing as follows:
Round 1: k2 together, around
Round 2: k2together, around
Round 3: cut yarn leaving a 5 inch tail. Thread a darning needle and slip it through all stitches on the dpns, pull the yarn tight and make 2 stitches to keep the top of the hat shut. Add a pompon to the top if desired.

Note the differences between knitting the project as above on dpns, and as below on straight needles.
Consider what other projects that are written for straight needles could be adapted to knitting on dpns

***RIBBED HAT WORKED ON 2 STRAIGHT NEEDLES

STRETCHY RIBBED CAP (for average-sized adult head)
Supplies: (less than) 1 skein worsted weight acrylic yarn, your brand/color choice
Needles: U.S. size 8, 9 or 10
Alternately, may be worked on circular needles if desired
Gauge: since this hat is very stretchy, any of the 3 sized needles will work and not change the overall fit too dramatically.

Cast on 70 stitches
Row 1: K3, P1, repeat across, ending in K2.
Row 2: P2, *k1, P3*, repeat across from *to*.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 and work as established in rib pattern until piece measures 7 inches long. At 7 inches, decrease as follows:
Row 1: k2tog across. Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3-5: Repeat rows 1 & 2, ending in a decrease row. DO NOT CAST OFF.

Leaving a 12 inch tail, cut yarn. Thread the tail through a darning needle. Slip the darning needle through the stitches on the knitting needle as you remove the knitting needle. Pull the tail tightly and secure the tightened opening with a whipstitch. Using the remaining length of tail, continue down the back of the hat and whipstitch the seams together until finished. Weave the tail in one direction, then the other to secure. Cut tail.
Notes: Hat may be made with scraps in various colors. The ribbing pattern can be altered as you wish. It can be embellished with a tassel or pompon at the top, or knitted flowers/shapes or buttons may be sewn on. Knitting it 9 to 10 inches long instead of 7 before decreasing, creates a brimmed edge that can be turned up.

Shopping for Knitting Supplies - A Guide for the New Knitter

See post immediately prior to this one (information for new knitters). Everything contained therein will give you a greater understanding of the process before and as you learn how to put it all together. It is a great source of answers to Frequently Asked Questions. Trust me...I had many questions -- which is why I compiled the information for myself, and to share.

The supplies you need to begin are a set of needles, yarn, some paper and a pen (to take any notes you feel necessary).

I suggest worsted weight yarn (gotta love it, so multi-purpose) and one pair of size 7 or 8 needles, 12 inches long, single point. (More about needles below.) With these supplies you can easily learn how to knit, and even make a scarf (with acrylic or wool or specialty yarn) or potholders (cotton yarn).

The fundamentals of knitting are casting on, the knit stitch, the purl stitch, alternating the 2 stitches to create stockinette stitch, and casting off. These are the doorway to more involved stitches and projects. However, your first items are going to be practice swatches, and your first project will most likely be a scarf.

ABOUT NEEDLES:

1) Available in 3 styles: single point, double point and circular (more on circular below).

2) Range in thickness\diameter in sizes from 0000 to 50.

3) Range in length in inches as 7, 10, 12 and 14.

4) Available in different materials: Aluminum, plastic, wood, steel, bamboo and old vintage needles can be found in a material called Bakelite and also resin (check Ebay for the last two).

Note: The items you choose to make, and any written pattern you choose to follow, will state what size needles to use and what type\weight yarn. Be mindful in the future of what you'll be making when you do your supply shopping.

If you do any Ebay or garage sale shopping for odd lots of used needles, you may find that while a certain number is stated on the tip, for example purposes #5, it may actually vary from other #5 needles that you have depending on it being American-made or United Kingdom-made. If there is any confusion, however, you can use a needle gauge - a plastic or aluminum card with holes in it through which you poke the needle to check its size. That way, you'll always be certain.

ABOUT CIRCULAR NEEDLES. These are used to work in the round, as are double pointed needles, instead of back and forth on straight needles (although one could use circular needles for back and forth knitting if it is convenient). What makes circular needles different is that they are 2 needles, one at each end, connected by a cord in the middle. Most circular needles currently available as "brand new" have the cord being made out of nylon or plastic. Vintage circulars have the cord being made out of coiled aluminum or coiled steel. When buying circular needles, be mindful of the size of the actual needle (its thickness\diameter) AND the length of the cord.

EVERYTHING a new knitter should know

1. Knitting consists of 2 stitches: Knit, Purl. Everything else is a combination of both.

(A) Repeated rows of knit stitch produce GARTER stitch. It looks the same on the front side as it does on the back side.

(B) Repeated rows of purl stitch produce GARTER stitch. (Same as above, imagine that.)

(C) Knit one row, Purl one row, produces STOCKINETTE stitch, which on the front side looks like small "v"s and on the back side looks like...GARTER stitch. (Shocking, I know.)

(D) Combinations of Knit & Purl stitches produce numerous other stitches and patterns. The most common combinations being:

(i) Ribbing (Knit 1, Purl 1, knit the knits and purl the purls) or knit 3, purl 3 - any combination of either.

(ii) Seed, Moss or Rice stitch (K 1, P1, then Purl the Ks and Knit the Ps).

(iii) The aforementioned stockinette.

Various sources on the net illustrate these, and more, techniques and stitches. Check your local library or go browsing at book stores.

2. Methods of knitting vary*** They are:

A) English B) Continental C. Combined/Combination

English method is preferred for learning and recommended by the Craft Yarn Council of America (CYCOA). English knitting, for the new knitter, creates a better tensioned piece with less irregularities than Continental or Combined. VERY IMPORTANT: The most frustrating part for the beginner knitter is irregular tension when alternating rows of knit and purl stitch (stockinette). It is easy to get discouraged by this...but I promise you..practice makes perfect.

3. CASTING ON: Long-tail cast on -- see http://www.butlercountryknit.com/longtail.pdf

3A. Getting down to learning. First, learn the knit stitch (see below)--practice it for several rows (garter). Thereafter, learn the purl stitch (see below)--practice it for several rows (garter). Finally, learn stockinette and practice it. Stockinette will be the most challenging as far as appearances go. You will want to get your knitting tension to the point where, in stockinette, it does NOT look "ribby" on the back\wrong side. The front will look like a series of Vs, where the back will look like garter stitch - it is the backside that will show you whether or not your stitch tension needs improvement.

4. KNIT stitch. Right hand needle enters the stitch on the left hand needle, from left to right and front to back. Yarn goes behind right hand needle and around to the front, counter clockwise. Pulling the yarn down between the needles, you will feel a slight "click" as the yarn goes into place. "Catch" that yarn with the tip of the right hand needle, pulling it towards you through and under the stitch on the left hand needle, which "transfers" it to the right hand needle. Pull the completed stitch off left hand needle completely--the knit stitch is now on the right hand needle. This should be the first stitch that you practice, row after row, until you are comfortable with the motions/technique.

5. PURL stitch. Right hand needle enters the stitch on the left hand needle, from right to left and back to front. Yarn goes behind the right hand needle and around to the front counter clockwise. Catch the yarn on the right hand needle, pulling it under the stitch on the left hand needle and to the right. The stitch is transferred to the right hand needle. Pull the finished stitch off the left hand needle completely -- the purl stitch is now on the right hand needle.

NOTE: Yarn direction around needle counterclockwise is the same for knit stitch and purl stitch, always, in English and Continental style.

6. STOCKINETTE: Knit stitch and Purl stitch together. SEE 2 C and 2 D above.

7. SHAPING: Decreasing and Increasing. Numerous techniques exist. Generally you never increase more than 1 stitch at a time, but a pattern may call for a 3 stitch decrease instead of 2. Patterns usually specify which increase/decrease technique is preferred for that particular item.

A. Decreasing. The simplest decrease is to work two stitches together, decreasing by 1 stitch (K2tog or P2tog) which slants to the right.

Another popular decrease is SLIP 1, KNIT 1, PASS OVER (SKP or SKPSSO) which slants to the left. Insert the needle into the stitch as if to knit it, but without knitting it, slip it over to the right hand needle, then knit the next stitch, then pass the slipped stitch over the one you just knitted, and the decrease is complete. This is usually used in combination with knitting two stitches together at one end of the row to decrease, then SKP at the other end, since each will leave a unique mark on your finished piece.

B. Increasing. The simplest way to increase is called MAKE ONE. This is done by inserting the left hand needle through the yarn that is horizontal between two stitches, lifting it, and knitting it. (see below)

(i) Make One Right Slant: In Knit stitch, insert the left needle from back to front into the strand between the stitches. Knit through the front loop, inserting right needle from left to right/front to back to twist the stitch, then knit it. In Purl stitch, insert left needle from back to front into the strand and purl through the front loop.

(ii) Make One Left Slant: In Knit stitch, insert left needle from front to back into strand and knit through back loop to twist it. In Purl stitch, insert left needle from front to back into strand and purl through the back loop.

BAR INCREASE: Knit the stitch completely but do not pull it off the left hand needle. Reinsert the left hand needle into the BACK of the same stitch, knit it and transfer both stitches to the right hand needle. For these and more see: http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/increase.php and http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases

SPECIALTY INCREASE: Yarn Over (YO) or Yarn Forward (YF). This leaves a hole in the work. It is used for buttonholes and lace patterns, or decoration. It is most often worked on the knit side, often paired with a decrease to keep the stitch count consistent. Bring the yarn from the back of the work to the front between the needles. Insert the right needle into the next stitch knitwise, wrap the yarn around the needle clockwise and complete the stitch. For this and more see:

http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/decrease.php and

http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/decreases

Some illustrated techniques can be found here: http://dnt-inc.com/barhtmls/knit/ - go to that site and hover over and click the stitch you require help with.

9. CASTING OFF: Knit (or purl) the first and second stitches. Insert the left hand needle into the FIRST stitch on the right hand needle and lift it over the second stitch. You have casted off 1 stitch. Repeat process of knitting a stitch, then lifting the prior stitch over that, until you have completed the bind off to the last stitch. Slip the last stitch off the needle, cut your yarn, and pull the yarn tightly through the last stitch tightly. The above are the basics. You should continue learning through books, patterns and websites.

***While it is a good idea to learn at least both English and Continental, it isn't necessary. Some people will be more comfortable with one style over the other--that is a matter of personal choice. Crocheter's may ultimately prefer Continental method since it is similar in motion to crochet. Combined method is a different story altogether -- often, a pattern will not work in combined method as written, and there needs to be a remedy. A fabulous site for combined knitting (which I suggest you look into after you feel accomplished in English method) is http://www.anniemodesitt.com

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NOTE: While this post is not "copyrighted" it is comprised of my personal thoughts and experience when I was a new knitter, and in my teaching knitting and what I believed was pertinent to know. You may print it out for your own use, or post an url to it, but please do not copy and paste it to your own blog or website. Thank you.