Make Two Anxiety

Reverse shaping--making the left and right sides of a vest;
or making 2 sleeves, 2 pantlegs;
or in the instance of stuffed animals and such, 2 ears, arms, legs, etc., can cause some anxiety for any stitcher.

This also holds true for items made in pairs - gloves, mittens, socks, slippers.

One solution that can often be used for both knit and crochet work is to make 2 simultaneously.  In knitting, it can be easy enough to work the same pieces together on the same needle - this is particularly true for small pieces.  On a doll dress, for instance, in knitting one can transfer the left sleeve stitches to a stitch holder, work across the back, transfer the right sleeve stitches to a stitch holder, work across the front, then work from left right front to left front side to side, or in the round, and take care of the sleeves last.  I do this all the time.  It ensures that the same amount of rows have been worked, and that the sleeves are indeed the same length.  It works great for Barbie shorts/pants too.  If you find you can use this method, please do.  It will save some frustration.

Working two pieces at the same time can be done for crochet as well.  I don't know many crocheters who don't own duplicate hooks in the same sizes.  Make both pieces simultaneous, row by row, or round by round.  If you don't have 2 of the same size hook, work one round, pull up a long loop as a place holder, and move to the other of the "pair" and work a round; continue alternating in that fashion.  Is it more a pain to work with one hook on two pieces at the same time than use two separate hooks for each row or round?  Perhaps.  However, the payoff is knowing that each row or round is exactly the same as the other.

These tricks come in handy even for the most seasoned stitcher.

Lastly, another trick is to work from "both ends" of one skein at the same time.  This is wonderful if you're making something small, or adding trim to a different area.  I recently made a puff sleeve vest and found myself making the sleeves by working from both ends of one skein.  By both ends, of course what is meant is the center pull and the outer portion of the skein...which assumes you're yarn is in skein form.

If you aren't using a skein, do yourself a favor and divide your yarn into 2 balls if you have intentions of working sleeves or similar.

That's it for now readers.  Happy stitching to you all.

Bargains~!!!

I know this will seem pretty basic, but if you're thinking about crocheting/knitting, you've got to buy supplies and likely you won't know exactly what to purchase, or that you could save $ when you do.  Crochet/knitting - its as expensive as you wish it to be.

When you first go buying supplies, take a look in your Sunday newspaper fliers and/or the internet web pages for your local craft store.  Around here (northern NJ) it would be ACMoore, Michaels, Joanns.  All 3 have web coupons for 40-50% off one item, and/or 20-25% off the total order (sometimes with exceptions) but still, good deals.  ACMoore and Michaels have Sunday fliers in the Star Ledger.

I'm fairly certain that each retailer will cross-honor the others' coupons, but with exceptions. Do use a 50% or 40% off coupon for a set of hooks or knitting needles (of course, you'll want to use it on your most expensive item, whatever it is).

When you are web surfing before you shop, pay attention also to what yarn is on sale.  When you're new to crochet or knitting, you're going to want to start with worsted weight yarn.  Buy what's on sale, because it really won't matter, except to your budget.  Personally, I'd suggest Red Heart Super Saver in a light color (I do not suggest Caron's Simply Soft for learning),  a size I crochet hook, or size 8 knitting needles.  That right there is all you need to begin.

Eventually, you'll want to add supplies to your craft kit, like small sharp scissors, a fabric tape measure, darning needles.  Stitch markers can purchased, or use paper clips, bobby pins, safety pins.  Even a scrap piece of contrast color yarn will come in handy as stitch marker and, in fact, many people when crocheting amigurumi prefer the piece of yarn because rather than removing and replacing it, it can simply be left to run up alongside of the project until its done then .... just pull it out.  Row counters are handy for knitting as are gauge rulers.

It doesn't hurt to have extra hooks/needles handy. Oftentimes we work on several projects at a time. It doesn't so much matter to crochet--you'd pull up  a long loop to not lose your place. However, with knitting, necessarily your needles will be left behind with the project holding all the stitches in place.  

Don't believe me?  Think you'll never have more than one project going at a time? Trust me, you will.

Look at Ebay for oddlots of hooks, needles and accessories. Before you bid....know that you're getting a deal.  Know ahead of time what that lot would cost you if purchased new.   You'd wind up kicking yourself if you paid too much for used items...but speaking from experience, I've won some lovely craft lots on Ebay.

Also, if you are the garage sale type, you can sometimes find hooks/needles/etc.....but beware of second hand yarn.  If it looks old, it is.  If it looks raggedy, it is.  If you have it in you to "sniff" garage sale yarn, take a small wiff.  If it smells musty or smoky, its better to leave it behind.  You could purchase it and wash it intact (stuffed into the legs of old pantyhose), but I've heard horror stories about garage sale yarn.  Sometimes, mice had set up house in it and you won't know until you got to the middle and found some chewed ends and droppings.  Ewwwwwwwwwwww.   Beware of garage sale yarn.  Also, if someone gives you yarn, examine it carefully and use your common sense whether or not its usable or should be trashed.

When you've learned how to crochet or knit, and you decide that you want to continue doing either (or both), you have plenty of time to move on to fancier more expensive yarns and treat yourself to pricey implements, gadgets and accessories, if you want to.

It doesn't have to be expensive when you start -- no one is happy with a first project cashmere potholder~!

Stuffing: poly fill vs. natural fiber fill (corn), and yarn for tight spaces

When you're making a stuffed toy, pillow or amigurumi (ami) you have options for your stuffing material.  For tight spaces like narrow arms and legs, I like to use yarn.  It is easy to slip/stuff some yarn, the same color as the arm/leg, into the tube and be done with it.  The benefit of that is:

a) you've got the yarn on hand;   and
b) it doesn't show through the stitches (for instance if your work is black, white poly fill can and show through).

With more than a tiny space to fill, your options are fill, such as polyester fill (polyfill/polyfil) or eco-friendly fiber fill made from corn.   Mountain Mist brand makes both of these, but there other polyester fill brands on the market.

Unfortunately, Mountain Mist Fiberfill, while boosting that it is eco-friendly, is a mess to work with.  It is very fiber-y.  After using it once, I decided against it.  Small fibers were all over my immediate workspace, my table and my project.  A thin dusting of it went everywhere.  Worse, it went into my nose and I suspect into my lungs.  After using it, I was sneezing it out!  I cannot imagine it is good for the lungs, regardless of how it might be good for the environment.  Also, it was crumbling out through the stitches of my project!  Imagine giving a stuffed animal to a baby who is going to hug and love it and be sniffing out those fibers.  Not good.

It has the feel and look of cotton candy--when you break a piece off, it literally breaks off.   Also, I wondered how it would stand up to repeated washings, since it also reminded me of cotton balls.  No one would intentionally use cotton balls to stuff a crochet/knit project unless they were desperate and never intended the item to be washed.  Once washed, the item would likely stay flat and never "bounce back" into shape.    So, the eco-friendly FIBER fill gets a thumbs down from me.

Conversely, this product from the same manufacturer gets a thumbs up:

Notice the "100% Polyester" on the bottom.  The fibers are long spun strands that keep their shape, pull apart (not break apart) nicely, and when washed it will bounce back into shape.  There is a reason this has been used for decades to stuff pillows and such.

By no means is Mountain Mist the only manufacturer of polyfill either, here are a two others:

You have to love it when a product, such as polyfill - goes by the brand name poly-fil.  That pretty much says it all!!!!

Lastly, the polyester fill is cheaper than the eco-friendly-corn-fill.

I've heard some very frugal crafty people will use scrap fabrics and scrap yarn to stuff their stuffies.  I haven't done this, and I can't speak to it one way or the other, but its an option I thought I'd mention.

However you choose to stuff your projects, happy stuffing to you all.

substitutions revisited

Have you ever had a friend ask you for a recipe and then tell you what was made wasn't as good as yours? So you ask....ok, how did YOU make it? The answer: well, I didn't have chicken, so I used turkey. I didn't have onions, so I used scallions. I don't care for mayo, so I used sour cream. Oh, and I like hard boiled egg, so I put that on top. Okay...so you took my CHICKEN SALAD recipe...and made...turkey, scallion, sour cream and hard boiled egg salad. Well, no wonder that doesn't taste like my recipe cuz it is as different as night and day now. *grin*

Same holds true for substitutions in crocheting and knitting. There's a techie saying "garbage in garbage out" and that applies here as well. Why would anyone want to take the time to make something to have it turn out lacklustre, ill fitting, the wrong size, etc.? Not me...that is unless I'm experimenting and letting the craft take me where it will. However, if I'm putting in the hours and concentration for a hand crafted item that I want to turn out "perfect" or at least "correctly," I am aiming at its best result and "doing my homework" before I make substitutions that may not work.

Of course, you can take a fine thread doily pattern worked with a small hook and substitute sport weight cotton and a larger hook, knowing that the result is going to be LARGER. Instead of a doily you have, perhaps, a table topper. Good. Nice. Fine. You didn't however, use those larger supplies thinking you were going to get the same result as the pattern intended, right? Right! A little research is necessary before substituting...by intention or necessity.

I had a student recently come to me with a rug pattern. (You know who you are....lol.) It was vintage. It was ancient. The company had gone out of business years ago, the yarn had not been manufactured in...forever...and PROPER substitutions had to be made for the item to work out .... correctly. My personal first inclination with rugs is to work them in cotton yarn. Of course, wool or acrylic can be used...that is YOUR decision, and is suggested in the pattern you choose to follow. Caron currently makes an acrylic "rug" yarn that it believes rivals acrylic rug yarns from by-gone years ago. I don't have personal experience with Caron's rug yarn (disclaimer) and am not pro or con as to it. The point is, that step 1 is to make that decision: what kind of fiber is appropriate and what is YOUR choice? Step 2 is choosing a similar yarn weight. Step 3 is....getting enough yarn to complete the item. Do your research. How many yards did the original pattern require? Step 4....use the correct hook or needle size. Step 5: Does gauge matter? If it is meant to FIT, it matters and you'll want to work a gauge swatch before beginning your piece.

Pulling all of the above information together will assist in finding the correct substitution for your item. With the proper supplies, luck isn't required...but I wish you luck anyway. :)

Happy crafting, Donna

frogging and tinking

It happens....you're deep into your work and then...you see it...a mistake. You instantly ask yourself why didn't that pesky little error show itself 10 rows ago. You review the remedies...1) leave it and pretend it doesn't exist (who cares if others can see it...it makes the piece unique) or 2) make a note to return later where "X marks the spot" and correct it in a way that no one else would ever know it marred your work of art; or....3) rip it back to the point of error and start over (frog it or tink it).

Funny terms, frog and tink. If you didn't know, ripping back refers to the ripping, as in the sound a frog makes...thus, frogging. Tink, however, refers to ripping back when knitting.... K N I T backwards....T I N K. That last little gem was told to me by Barbara G and I'm glad she shared it with me.

So, basically, we all make mistakes in our crocheting and knitting on occasion. The decision to leave it, revisit and correct it, or rip it back pretty much depends on the item itself and whether or not you insist on perfection. Personally, if it is a gift, I feel it is necessary to rip it back or "seamlessly" "invisibly" repair it as if it never existed. On the other hand, if it is for your own use, or something for "around the house" or a utilitarian item such as a dishcloth....you may want to leave the error be...especially if the mistake isn't terribly obvious. We are are own worst critics...perhaps tho, someone else would be hard pressed to find the mistake.

So, these are the considerations and options whenever this happens. Ultimately, the decision is yours.

pattern content, gauge and substitutions

PATTERN CONTENT, GAUGE and SUBSTITUTIONS (not pattern reading)

1. Materials needed

(i) hook size (ii) Yarn information:

a. suggested yarn (color/brand)

b. weight (sport, worsted, bulky, etc.) sometimes accompanied by

universal no. 1, 2, 3, 4.

c. ounces or yardage needed to complete project

d. gauge (amount of stitches/rows per inch)

2. Stitches used (ch, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, trc, etc. or special stitches)

3. Stitch sequence (how the stitches are put together to form the piece)

GAUGE (and SUBSTITUTION)

1. When and why gauge is important / finished measurements, sizing and fit:

a. When FIT doesn't matter: If the project is a blanket, scarf, stuffed animal, purse/tote - gauge is not crucially important. If a baby blanket's measurement is quoted in a pattern as 24" X 24", and your finished piece is 25"X25" or 23"X23" that is immaterial to the item's function. Thus, if FIT doesn't matter, gauge doesn't matter. Go ahead and use the recommended hook and yarn, or substitute a like-weight yarn, and the finished size will be fine.

b. When FIT matters (sweater/hat/socks, etc.) correct gauge is crucial. We naturally assume that, by using the stated hook size and exact recommended brand/weight yarn, the the item will be identical to the project's specified size/fit. Generally, this WILL be the case. However, by taking the time to work up a gauge swatch, the possibility of sizing errors (and disappointment in a finished project) is eliminated.

2. Reasons for differing gauge (too small, too big)

a. Naturally crocheting tightly or loosely; correcting gauge with hook substitution:

Patterns intended to fit generally list the gauge and suggest working up a gauge swatch, which is a small sample of the stitches worked over a few repeats. For instance, an item worked in double crochet gives the gauge: 8 rows and 8 stitches = 2 inches. Using the suggested hook and suggested weight/brand yarn, you would crochet 8 double crochet stitches for 8 rows, then measure your swatch with a ruler, from side to side and top to bottom. If your result is a perfect square 2"X2", your gauge is correct, and your item will fit as specified. If your gauge swatch measures 1.5"X1.5", you should try a larger hook and work another swatch. Chances are, this combination will give you perfect gauge. Conversely, if your initial gauge swatch is 4.5"X4.5", you should try a smaller hook to reach gauge. Thus, talking the time to make gauge swatch will let you know whether or not your item will fit before you start the actual project.

b. Yarn substitution (from that suggested in pattern):

When substituting yarns, look to the yarn information, which can be found on its label, on the pattern, or on the internet if not given in the pattern. Look to substitute a like-weight yarn. Unfortunately, not all yarn properties are even across the board. For instance, a perfect example of this is worsted weight Red Heart Supersaver vs. Caron's Simply Soft. The label for each of these yarns states "worsted weight" with a universal number "4". However, Caron's Simply Soft is visibly thinner, and a bit "more stretchy" thus, the same hook, same stitches, and same amount of rows, will give a slightly smaller result than RHSS, simply due to the different qualities of each yarn--even tho both are listed as being the same. Another difference is that the RHSS swatch will be stiffer while the Caron's SS swatch will have a silky drape. The same "fix" applies here...make a gauge swatch, if it is too small, try another with a larger hook--conversely, if it is too large, try again with a smaller hook--in this instance, the key to getting the right gauge for the pattern is hook size.

OF MOST IMPORTANCE: When switching yarns you must "get the same" stitches per inch, which is generally specified on a yarn's label, or in the internet description, and is a good starting point for finding like-weight substitutions.

Lastly, make sure you have ENOUGH yards/ounces of the substituted yarn. The yardage/ounces can be found on the label. This is especially important if the suggested yarn/brand comes in skeins, and the yarn you wish to substitute comes in balls or hanks. Get enough YARDS to complete your project.